Lessons from Tailoring: The Shoulder

Over the summer, I went through my cool weather clothes and pulled pieces that I didn’t like to alter into garments I would wear more often. Two of these garments I chose to upcycle were a pair of men’s henley raglan long sleeve shirts from Bass Pro Shops. These were from a Black Friday sale last fall, to bring more henley style shirts and raglan baseball tees into my closet. They are great shirts. Soft and sturdy fabric, comfortable, but not the right fit for my body or style. Since this shirt was designed for masculine style, it was not as cute on as I hoped. The button placket is set higher on the chest, near the collar bone, instead of lower near the chest in feminine styles. The second issue was the shoulder, it had room for even broader shoulders than I have, accentuating my shoulders in all the wrong ways. Now, I could have re-homed these pieces but I’d like to keep the baseball tee shirts and enjoy wearing them. I bought them with the intention of keeping the a long time.

The neckline had to be fixed. That high collar was the biggest obstacle to styling the shirt for me, but how does one change a neckline from a from a crew neck button placket to a v-neck or scoop? I first removed the ribbed collar, and focused my efforts on the shape my open neckline would create. From previous alterations and pattern cutting, I knew that v-neck and scoop necklines can get you quick. The open shape can quickly shift from good to gaping, to sliding constantly off the shoulders. Once it is cut, you can’t go back – so you better have a plan.

I did have a plan this time. I would continue my cut in a key shape. I followed the line of the button placket, in a narrow scoop down until the end of the buttons. With those pieces removed it was time to taper and shape the final cuts. I matched each side for a tapered scoop, paying attention to the depth and at the bottom of the curve. Too low, and this shirt would be too revealing for casual wear. Too wide as we work our way up to the shoulder, and would slip off. I kept my line narrow, remembering to account for the rolled hem, that would eat up some width. I tried this on and was pleased with the scoop so I moved this project forward to hemming.

This is where my upcycling hit a snag. I still have a lot to learn when it comes to fitting garments, and my green tailoring skills showed when it came to finish the neckline. The neckline had excess at the bottom of the scoop, more gaping than I wanted, which left me with a fork in the road. Do I gather it? Do I add darts? Do I cut more? I decided to gather it at the bottom and live with it for a bit. I put it back in my closet and let it be until the cool weather returned.

Fast forward to this past weekend, and the first cool days of September. I wore the golden tan version with the gathered scoop, and it was not it. The shirt was close but no cigar, and I found myself tugging and adjusting this odd neckline. What I noticed as the day went on, is that the shoulder was fitting strange too. There was a bunching of fabric at the top of the neckline and back, not what I was looking for. Finally, last night I stood before my mirror and started adjusting. I tried the shirt on backwards, normal and off the shoulder. I folded the bottom hem to see if I needed to crop it. I thought about changing the neckline. Would a binding the neck opening in a collar solve the bunching? I took out the gathers and tried it on again, how do I make this sit flat?

The shoulders. I needed to take in the shoulders. I tried raising the neckline in the mirror by gathering some excess in the scoop, but then I pinched some fabric with my fingers at the shoulder and huzzah! We found our solution. (I also removed the cuffs to shorten the sleeve for a better fit for my arm length.)

My purpose in buying these shirts, was to bring a style back into my wardrobe that I used to own in college. My Gas Monkey Garage spark plug baseball tee and a v-neck baseball tee from Victoria’s Secret. I wore those pieces to death in the early 2010’s. By pinching away the excess at the shoulder line, the scoop rested flat and there was no bunching at the arm’s eye. It continues to amaze me how the most random parts of a garment change the entire fit.

Who knew a loose shoulder can make the neckline wonky? This novice tailor sure didn’t. I hope this little story of tailoring can help you if your stuck fitting a shirt. Or maybe this will inspire to take the plunge on a alteration in your closet.

3 Ways To Upcycle Your Hoodies

The harvest season awakens something in me. I know it is the season that everything dies, but it does so beautifully. Humidity, also bids farewell for 6 months, and with it the best time of the year for getting dressed awakens from its slumber. But what are you to do when the itch to buy something new descends, as it did upon your mind last August? I’m determined to find new ways to scratch this itch, without over consuming and overspending. May I introduce you to my newest sewing obsession – applique?

Applique is like drawing on my clothes. I love it! Items from my wardrobe that I don’t like anymore can be erased and sketched upon once again with needle, thread, and scrap fabric. Or sometimes you get the double whammy of upcycling a garment with applique, from another garment you aren’t vibing with anymore. This is what did to re-imagine three hoodies from my existing wardrobe with patches and cut up scraps from projects that didn’t work out, to recycle and enjoy those projects in a new form.

1: Removing and Replacing a Portion of the Garment

Sometimes, try as you might, you have to cut out a portion of fabric from damage. This is what happened to this hoodie. It used to have block letters, embroidered by machine, that I had grown tired of. Even though I had good memories from the destination this hoodie used to spell out across the front, I had grown tired of being a billboard for this place. I tried to remove the embroidery, very carefully, but my stitch ripper did its thing too well and made holes. To remedy this, I cut a large section of fabric, bigger than the area I needed to replace to fix this problem. Next I secured this to the hoodie, by hand sewing, but you could sew this with your machine very easily. Just watch for pins! Finally, I cut out a moon and some birds, abstract style, from scrap fabric, sewing those to the newly repaired hoodie. It’s ready to wear once again!

2: Why Not Add a Separating Zipper and Patches?

Sometime it is not the graphic, but the overall function of the garment that needs an upgrade. I do wear this light blue hoodie, but not as much as I could, if the hoodie had a full zip, so I could wear it as a jacket. To make this upgrade, I purchased a separating zipper, usually labeled as a jacket/coat zipper. Before I began my cut, I marked where to cut, ensuring I would cut evenly in the middle of the garment. Next, I pinned the zipper in place, adjusting this several times, for perfect placement. I sewed this by hand, which I highly recommend, since a special sewing foot and some direction is needed to sew zippers without obliterating your needle.

I was quite pleased with its new functional form, but it was still missing some personality. It was time to cover the Nike logo. Once again, I tried to seam rip the logo, but those logo’s are quote stubborn. Instead, I changed it up to sew these Canadian Geese patches and a moon to this area of the hoodie, inspired by the film Fly Away Home.

3: Cover and Forget the Old Screen Printing

Now for the easiest upcycle – covering a screen print graphic with applique. For this design, I layered pieces of the background fabric, which was cut to be mountains, into a night sky. When choosing an applique this sizable, I recommend trying this one before you sew the pieces into place. By doing this first, I noticed the graphic was extending into the armpit, not desirable for comfort or the image I was creating with this applique pieces. I trimmed from the sides and tried again, before I began to sew. I first sewed the sky and then placed the bats. These bats were also free hand cut on the fold.

By changing up the graphic from a business, to piece of artwork, I can share something I am interested in with the world. Bats. Bats are great pollinators and help us maintain the mosquito population. They are also ambassadors of spooky season. Through some sewing and a little imagination, I transformed an unworn hoodie into a favorite piece of art. I hope this inspires you to get creative with something you might toss in the donate pile, and give your garments a second chance with a dash of applique!

Upcycling an Ikea Chair Into a Garden Trellis

In 2021, we bought a pair of Ikea Poang chairs. They’re pretty iconic and are what many people envision when they think about Ikea chairs. We used to sit in them every time we would shop at Ikea and dream of buying them when it made sense. That time came in 2021, and at first, we loved them. However, over time, they lost their luster. They were really low to the ground, making them hard to get out of, and they were narrow, so it was difficult to work on a computer or do anything with your hands, like cross-stitch or knit.

Ikea Poang chair
Ikea Poang chair

After moving in 2024, we decided that these would become outdoor chairs on our porch. Although the chairs weren’t designed to be outdoors, the wood can be treated to resist the weather, and the cushions were brought inside at night. They worked decently well on the porch; however, the same design flaws persisted: too narrow and low. When we built our table and stools, we no longer had a need for the Ikea chairs since the stools are primarily where we sit. And when we want something more “loungey” or have people visiting, we have folding chairs that recline flat. When not in use, they can be folded and stored away, taking up less space than the Ikea chairs. That left us with a decision to be made about the Ikea chairs.

We aren’t people to throw things away unnecessarily, and we didn’t want to donate these chairs because they sat outside for nearly a year. Throughout the entire process, Magz had the idea of trying to use these chairs in our garden. We talked about simply setting a planter where the seat would be and letting nature take over them, as well as cutting out the seat support and growing a plant up from the ground through the chair. Eventually, I had the idea of using the back of the chair as a trellis system. You can’t see it in the above picture, but behind the cushion are two vertical pieces with several horizontal pieces between them, creating a ladder system. That’s essentially what a trellis is anyway. So, with that in mind, I set out to make it all happen.

Disassembly, Design, and Construction

If you’ve ever put together a piece of Ikea furniture, you know that they are all pretty similar. All of the individual wooden (or wood-adjacent) pieces are connected with screws, bolts, or barrel nuts (I had to look up what they’re called). Although assembly can be overly complicated, once you’ve put one piece of Ikea furniture together, you have an idea of how everything goes together. And while durability and longevity aren’t Ikea’s strong points, thankfully, it was a bonus in this case, because as easily as the chairs went together, they came apart.

With the pieces separated, we were left with two cross pieces, the back section that will be used for the trellis, two seat support pieces, and the two large side pieces that comprise the arms and bottoms for each chair. There was a seat section for each chair that was incredibly difficult to pull the staples from. We ended up getting rid of that piece. The back of each chair was the original inspiration for this project, but as I took the chairs apart, I could see ways to use the remaining pieces. The sides can either be cut down for individual lengths of wood or can be transformed into a planter stand. Meanwhile, the cross pieces will be used to build additional planters or in another woodworking project in the future. I typically don’t throw anything away if there’s a possibility that it can be used again.

Ikea Poang, Upcycling, Garden Planter
The first upcycle Ikea Poang chair into a garden planter.

Designing the planters for the back pieces was straightforward. I measured the width of them, added two inches, and that was the interior width of the planters. I had a bunch of leftover pressure-treated 1x6s from last year’s porch project. I kept them their full width and cut pieces to length to make the four sides of the planters. Initially, I thought I would need to have two rows of these boards so that each planter was roughly 11 inches tall. However, after attaching the sides for each planter and feeling confident that one row would provide enough dirt and be sturdy enough to not tip over, I kept the planters separate. This was great, because it meant I had two planters mostly finished when I thought I only had one planter halfway done.

With that decision made, I had to figure out the bottom. I did this by using scrap pieces and ripping full-width pieces on the table saw to cover the opening. I also added support pieces for extra attachment points. Also, a note on the connectors I used. For the most part, I used coated exterior 1 1/4-inch screws that went into pre-drilled holes to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting. This mostly worked; however, there were times when I used exterior brad nails for efficiency and simplicity. I also used outdoor-rated wood glue to hold everything together. I’m confident that these planters are built well and should stay together for the foreseeable future.

Next up was the most complicated part: attaching the back piece to the planter. On the chair, this piece connected to a cross member with a short bolt that screwed into an enclosed nut that was pressed into the back side of the piece. There was no way to reuse this setup with the planter since the bolt was too short. Instead, I determined that a 3/8-inch bolt would go through the existing hole. I managed to clamp the back piece to the planter in order to drill a small pilot hole through the plant. I then drilled that hole out with a bigger bit and ran a zinc-coated bolt through everything and tightened it down with a nut. With both sides connected, I added a screw through both pieces on each side to make sure everything is secure. And with that, it was all done.

Ikea Poang, Upcycling, Garden Planter
Both upcycled Ikea Poang chair trellis planters.

In total, I think each planter took about two hours, and it was pretty easy to bring this idea to fruition. I’m also very proud of our ability to reuse and upcycle something that a lot of people would have thrown away. I’m really excited to plant in these this year and see how beans or cucumbers will climb the trellis system. I’ll definitely follow up with other posts about how we reuse the other pieces (if they’re used in a garden-related project) as well as how successful these planters are. If you’re interested in doing something like this, don’t be afraid to take a chance and upcycle something into a planter for your garden. It’s a lot of fun and gives your garden extra character.

It’s Okay to Admit You Don’t Like It

A place I didn’t expect to reach this year, was the mental head space of dislike for a dream I’ve had for most of my life. Now could it be burnout and I just need a break? Probably. But I also think it might a healthy thing to acknowledge something you thought you would love, may not actually bring you joy as you wished.

What am I talking about? Sewing. I don’t like sewing as much as I want to. It is tedious, extremely complicated, and requires a level of patience I lack. I’ve been a sewist for 5 years now. I devoted a large amount of my time over the past five years to the study of garment construction, and I realized that it is not my medium, yarn is, and its not a failure to admit I don’t like sewing as much as knitting and crochet.

I think I have known this for about a year, yet refused to verbalize my feeling because it felt like I failed the one thing I always wanted to do. But why is that a failure?

Just because it’s not my passion, doesn’t mean I am going to stop sewing. I think having this space to put less pressure on it to be “my thing” could make me enjoy it more!

Because then I am free to create, to fail, to be a slow learner, to take breaks from sewing when I am ready to cry. I don’t have to feel pressured to get my skills up to par for selling my work. I don’t have to feel pressure to design my own patterns or build a business on sewing. I can go back to basics of what has always been at my core – art. I am an artist, I don’t set out to be, but I know its there inside me too afraid to commit to the bit.

I love what sewing brings me. It’s a fantastic skill to have. I can design my own clothing made to measure and that is luxurious even if my sewing skills are mid.

I can experiement with my style through upcycling. I love how I can recycle and repurpose fabric instead of donating. That is a important part of comsumption. We buy and buy but don’t think about the life cycle of the garment, but with needle and thread you can leave the buy and declutter cycle.

Sewing has taught me to be a wiser comsumer as well. I buy garments that I can’t sew. Complex garments. I also price compare fabric against pieces in store to figure out what is more cost effective to sew. Such as buying a 6.99/yard, one yard cut of cotton jersey to make one long sleeve basic tee. You can buy these from retailers for 35 USD compared to sewing one for 7 USD.

It’s not always cheaper, but sometimes it is and that is a huge win!

Finally, by allowing myself to feel these feelings, my hope is that I will be free to explore and create unencombered by goals of monetizing my hobby, instead that I enjoy the creative process again.

Have you ever tried sewing? Did you find it challenging?

Flannel Upcycling – Skirt from Sleeves

When planning an upcycle, one thing that I consider with care is how to use the entire garment in the most innovative way possible. Maybe it’s all those episodes of Project Runway guiding me?

When I began my flannel upcycling project, and planned to transform them into vests, they needed a real purpose.

I began this project last year, as the summer was winding down, with fall whispering in the trees. Fall is an unmistakable inspiration for me. I love the color palette, traditional fabrics, and the academic style that returns to fashion every autumn season.

Sleeves Find New Life

Knowing how much yardage there is hidden in those sleeves, I had an idea – a plaid skirt with alternating colored plaid skirt panels connected by a waistband.

To do this, I cut the sleeves carefully from the shoulder seam to retain as much width and length as possible. This would become the bottom of the skirt. Next, I cut the cuffs from the sleeve; this tapered end was perfectly shaped for the waistline of the skirt for a flared effect.

For the waistband, I had yet to understand elastic, and was growing tired of waist ties, so I got a bit creative! I decided to use buttons, four of them to start, and created an adjustable button closure skirt, like the hook and eye of a bra band. The buttons were actually repurposed from the buttons of the shirt. For ease of getting dressed, I sewed the skirt on all the side seams, leaving a 2.5-3 inch opening to adjust the waistband, in a way that the fabric would cross over for security.

If you are looking for an easy and cute fall upcycle for the new season, I would highly recommend this project! You can even pair the vest and skirt together for a complete outfit!

Upcycling Pillowcases into a Vest and Skirt

What if the clothing we wear is more than just a garment, but connects us to the fibers of our being?

What if a pillowcase, from a loved one no longer here with you, could be more than just an item cluttering your closet? How could you repurpose it so the memories can walk with you in the new days ahead. All while the smell of their laundry detergent, and their home, so distinct to your senses, that being near it makes you feel comfort.

That is what this project is to me. More than an upcycle, or a thrifty hack, but a way to process feelings. Find a way forward. So the things left behind, that remind of what is missing, can do more than drown us in memory and stuff, but become a tangible way of healing.

A Simple Denim Upcycling Project for Beginners

What do we do when an item of clothing doesn’t fit? Rehoming is always a good idea, but here is another one – upcycling. What if you could transform that garment into another garment you will wear? Here’s an easy upcycle using one pair of jeans.

The Process

To begin, I cut off the legs of the denim above the knee. This was important. To hem the denim to the same length, including the excess fabric needed to fold over for a waistband, the leg section needed to be longer than what was cropped.

I carefully cut open the side seams, avoiding both the pocket and the rivets. The belt loops were set aside for later.

I then cut the leg pieces to the proper width, adjusting the fit with try ons, before sewing. The top of the section was hemmed for a waistband and the bottom hemmed with the rest of the short.

I sewed this very carefully with my machine. I did break a needle but, it happens just use caution and wear glasses to protect those eyeballs. Always know where your fingers are too when using a sewing machine.

Next I repaired the worn denim around the belt loops and attached the cut off belt loops to a new section and tada: you have a new pair of shorts for summer!

Create a website or blog at WordPress.com

Up ↑