A couple of months ago, Magz showed me a video from an Australian YouTuber who was working on a project that required some woodworking tools. She and her husband didn’t have the necessary tools, so they went to a local tool library and borrowed what they needed. This was the first time I had heard of a tool library, and I was so thrilled and blown away that they exist. I quickly started researching tool libraries to learn more about them and where they exist, but it’s safe to say that we need more of them.
What’s a Tool Library?
A tool library is exactly what it sounds like: It’s a library, but instead of lending books, they lend tools. In some cases, they are connected to a community book library, so the library card allows a person to borrow books and tools. In other cases, like the one the Australian YouTuber showed, it’s a standalone library, so you pay an annual membership fee to borrow tools. But even when it costs money, it’s usually cheaper than the cost of a single new tool. A tool library in Buffalo, NY, has three membership levels – $30/year (can borrow 5 tools at a time; 1 user), $75/year (25 tools at a time; 1 user), and $150/year (50 tools at a time; 2 users). If you consider that even an affordable miter saw, like the 10-inch Metabo that I have, costs $140 on sale, a tool library membership is a no-brainer until you build out your tool collection.
Tool libraries tend to have a massive selection of tools to borrow. That includes hand tools and power tools, woodworking tools and gardening equipment, and automotive tools and painting supplies. You can find something as small as a mini hand clamp and individual router bits or as large as a jobsite table saw with a stand and air compressors. The possibilities are nearly endless.
When I first started researching tool libraries, I was surprised at how many of them exist in the United States. There’s a wonderful website called Tool Library Finder that lists 204 of them, with every state but Delaware, South Carolina, Alabama, Mississippi, Oklahoma, Nebraska, North Dakota, Wyoming, Nevada, and Alaska having at least one. Even Puerto Rico has one. Pennsylvania, where we live, has five of them; four of them are dedicated to woodworking, and the fifth is focused on gardening. So, if you live in America, there’s a good chance that you’re within driving distance of a tool library, and if you’re like me, you may not have known it existed. The bulk of them are located in concentrated centers of population and the Northeast, which has always been known for woodworking and craftsmanship, but there are also libraries in seemingly random places, like Carbondale, Illinois, or three in the Sioux Falls/Sioux City area.
Why Are Tool Libraries Important?
This post continues a trend of posts that I’ve published recently on tips for woodworking on a budget and how the internet has led people to believe that they need to have the very best equipment and tools to participate in a hobby. Tool libraries were one of my suggestions for woodworking on a budget. They are an incredible resource to a variety of people and for a plethora of reasons. People who are new homeowners and don’t have all the maintenance or lawncare equipment that they need, someone who doesn’t have the space to permanently store large tools, and a young person who doesn’t have the money to buy every tool are all examples of people who would benefit from a tool library. Tool libraries allow a person to borrow a tool they may only use once instead of having to buy and attempt to sell it after the fact. They also help a person to try different tool brands and features before buying one.
Finally, I think we’re living in a time where American politicians are so focused on money and profit that it’s easy to forget the importance of community and culture. On the surface, billionaires are controlling everything, and politicians promote policies that help these same billionaires. Yet, under the surface, community and culture are as rich as they’ve ever been, and I think tool libraries fit into this. Tool libraries exist to serve their communities. They’re often non-profits and operate to benefit local craftspeople, woodworkers, and gardeners. These libraries help people get started in a hobby that they’ve always wanted to participate in, aid in the maintenance of homes, and educate people on how to use tools, further developing a skill. I cannot see any negative to tool libraries, and the way they help to combat out-of-control capitalistic greed is exciting and a step in the right direction. I think we should all be focused on ways to improve our communities and their citizens. Supporting and promoting entities like tool libraries is a small way to carry out this mission.
Do you have a tool library close to you? If so, have you ever borrowed from it? And if you don’t have a tool library, there are ways to pursue creating one in your area. There are multiple Reddit threads that discuss establishing a tool library that is affiliated with a local book library. I think it starts with reaching out to your local book library and getting the conversation started. A library’s leadership team may not have known about tool libraries or that there is interest in having one in your community. And once that is known, that leadership team can share its invaluable experience of gathering funding and getting the project off the ground. We’re better humans when we live in community and support each other. Tool libraries are part of that.
This is a post I’ve been wanting to write for some time, as I’ve started to publish more woodworking content on the blog. The topic stems from my post about how the Internet is ruining hobbies by selling lies. Something that really frustrates me is someone who is potentially interested in a hobby like woodworking becoming discouraged because they think the cost of entry is too steep, often the result of how content creators and influencers present the hobby online. Thankfully, some areas have opened tool libraries that allow members to borrow tools for a low monthly or annual fee. It’s a blessing to have one of these nearby, and it seems that more are opening, but if you don’t, there are still ways to begin woodworking on a budget. Here are some tips I’ve learned along the way for getting into woodworking and expanding your tool collection.
Buy Used or Buy Cheap – Not Both
There are generally two directions to consider when trying to start woodworking on a budget: buying used tools or buying cheap tools. Both are great options, but you should never buy used cheap tools. What do I mean?
Buying used tools on Marketplace or Craigslist or at an auction or a yard sale can be a great way to buy quality tools that were expensive when new. These tools are often older and heavier but will last for decades if they were maintained and continue to be moving forward. It’s pretty easy to find Sears/Craftsman, Delta, and old Dewalt tools online. They’ll usually have metal frames and may not be the color you associate with the modern versions, but they work. Older saws and joiners will often be belt-driven instead of the blade(s) being directly connected to the motor. This makes them heavier but also easier to work on and maintain. I bought my joiner this way and also considered buying a band saw and drill press used before finding the ones I ultimately bought. When buying used, thoroughly investigate the tool as much as you can before buying.
In contrast, buying cheap is straightforward: buying new tools that are more affordable than Dewalt, Rigid, Sawstop, Festool, etc. Ryobi, Craftsman, Bauer, Hercules, and Skillsaw are well-known brands that can be bought in stores in the U.S. and are very affordable. I have a Ryobi drill press, band saw, jig saw, reciprocating saw, and drill, and all work as intended. All but the drill were bought at our local outlet store. I also have a right-angle drill, router, dovetail jig, and many hand tools from Harbor Freight, which sells Bauer and Hercules. I’ve never had an issue with a Harbor Freight tool. On Amazon, you can buy brands such as Wen and Vevor, which have solid reputations. I have a Wen biscuit jointer and would like to buy their scroll saw when I get one. All of the tools listed above were at least $100 cheaper than a similar version bought at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Prioritize How Much You Spend on Tools by Which You’ll Use the Most
I think the biggest issue new woodworkers run into is placing too much emphasis on tools that aren’t used often. In my woodshop, I use my table saw, miter saw, sanders, and band saw the most. They’re also the tools that I intentionally bought from brands with a reputation of reliability and durability. I have a Rigid table saw and belt sander, a Metabo miter saw and random orbital sander, and a Ryobi band saw. I already wrote about why I bought the band saw I did, and I’m confident in its reliability in spite of its price. A drill is another tool that often gets used in the woodshop, when repairing things, or around the house. I think it’s wise to invest in a drill and impact driver that will last. I have a set of Porter-Cable drills that have worked flawlessly for the past seven years. They weren’t the most expensive drills, but they also weren’t the cheapest.
My recommendation is to take time and make a list of the tools you think you’ll use the most, and it may be different for everyone. Once that list is prepared, find the most cost-effective option that still provides the durability, performance, and reliability you want. If that means buying a Sawstop table saw or a Dewalt sander, you should do what makes sense for you. In some cases, the price difference between a more expensive brand, like Bosch, and a Harbor Freight tool is only $10 or $20, so it could make sense to buy the Bosch even if it’s a tool you won’t use a lot. It’s just a matter of what’s available at a given time.
Don’t Be Afraid of Odd Amazon Brands, But Avoid Knock-Offs
Amazon is full of brands that you’ll never find anywhere else. The majority are made in China and often have names that can be humorous to native English speakers. A lot of people will write these off as cheap garbage, but don’t be so quick to overlook them. I love watching Project Farm’s reviews on YouTube, and something I’ve learned is that these Chinese brands are capable of producing a product that goes toe-to-toe with the name brands but at a reduced cost. In some of his tests, the cheap brands even outperform the name brands. Because a lot of tool brands share countries of origin, it’s fair to assume that many are made in the same factory, providing cheaper brands with access to the same technologies, molds, and toolings as the expensive brands.
At one point, Harbor Freight tools were considered cheap garbage, but now their reliability and performance compete with Dewalt, Milwaukee, and Makita. It’s worth taking the time to read/watch reviews and see if the Amazon brand will fit your needs. You may surprise yourself by finding a gem.
However, beware of blatant knock-offs that claim to be Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. but with a price that seems too good. They’re often poor quality and can even be dangerous. Brands that imitate a name brand’s appearance by using the appropriate color are often okay, though.
Pick a Color for Battery-Powered Tools
For the majority of the above information, I’m talking about larger power tools and not drills or other battery-powered hand tools. But when it comes to battery-powered tools, I think it’s wise to pick a brand that best serves your needs and stick with their battery system. Power tool brands have unique colors: Dewalt is yellow, Makita is blue, Milwaukee is red, and Rigid is orange. Harbor Freight has blended this a bit because their Hercules line is similar to Makita, while their Bauer line is close to Milwaukee’s red. But you can still identify most tool brands by their color. Each brand has its own battery system that works with most if not all of their tools. Joining a brand that has a dozen or more tools that can use the same battery opens up a lot of opportunities.
This is a mistake that I made. I have Porter-Cable drills and a Bauer right-angle drill and chainsaw. I’m now at a place where I don’t know what brand to buy when I need to replace my drills. Porter-Cable still makes great drills but produces few other tools anymore. I’ll likely end up buying Bauer to take advantage of already having their battery and charger, but had I thought about this years ago, I could have gotten in front of this decision.
Know You Can Upgrade Later
The underlying thread of staying within your means when buying woodworking tools is that you’ll have the opportunity to upgrade down the road. You can buy a bunch of tools, learn which ones you use the most and what aspects you like or dislike with each tool, and then decide what direction to go in the future. Maybe the cheaper version you bought becomes your favorite. Perhaps you’ll want something with more power or better dust collection. Either way, you have the freedom to make that decision later when you buy an affordable option now. Contrast that with buying the expensive version first and realizing you don’t like it. At that point, you either have to sell it for a loss or deal with it.
I have plans to upgrade most of my tools in the future. I’d like a cabinet-style table saw that doesn’t fold down. I’d also like a more powerful wet/dry vacuum that works with more of my tools. Finally, I’d like a slider miter saw to cut wider boards. But my current versions continue to perform well and serve my needs, allowing me to buy additional tools to try out. I prefer having more tools than fewer more expensive tools. The ability to try different tools and see how useful they can be in the shop offers invaluable experience and learning opportunities.
It’s Important to Woodwork
The most important part of woodworking is actually working with wood. If it’s a hobby you think you could be passionate about, the best way to learn if you like it is to get your hands dirty and start building things. Getting started can be the most difficult part, but I urge you to buy the tools you can afford and give yourself a chance to love it. I don’t think you’ll regret it. And if you are a woodworker, I’d love to hear what tools you have and how you’ve found cost-effective ways to woodwork. Finally, if you need specific tool recommendations, let me know. I’d be happy to help.
I’m sure most have experienced the frustration of trying to watch something on a phone and either struggling to find something to prop it against or having that item not work, causing your phone to fall over. Magz and I often watch things on our phones during the day and used to experience the annoyance described above. Back in 2022 or 2023, Magz was using her sewing machine a lot, and it would cause the table she would use to bounce, toppling her phone. She knew she wanted something stable enough to withstand the sewing machine’s bounce but compact enough to be easily stowed away when not in use.
My solution? A mini easel, which fit all her needs. With a triangular base, an easel is sturdy even when the surface it’s on is jostled or the easel is bumped into. Easels are also compact. The pivot point at the top allows it to be folded flat and put away.
I spent time studying large easels that hold canvases to figure out the general design. I then took measurements of her phone and scaled everything down from the large easel to ensure that the scale remains intact. Here’s what I came up with.
Magz’s phone easel
It was really easy to make. I used scrap wood I had, ripped everything down to a half-inch wide, and then cut everything to length. The two front legs are the same length, and the back one is a half-inch shorter. The horizontal brace is about an inch longer than her phone is. I also added two spacers between the legs to help with opening and closing. Finally, I bought a section of threaded quarter-inch stainless steel rod and two wing nuts. The wing nuts are nice because you can loosen and tighten them to hold the easel in place. I’m really proud of this design, and it’s worked perfectly for Magz’s needs. The biggest issue is that I never built a second one for myself. I can’t remember if I didn’t think I’d use one or if there was another reason, but I didn’t make another.
Building a Second (Different) Easel
After three or four years of having my phone fall or be in the way of my monitor, I decided to finally build myself a phone easel. Even though I didn’t remember all the details of building Magz’s easel, it was easy to take the measurements off hers and build mine the same way. I once again used scrap wood and cut everything to the same length and width. However, a problem arose when I started to assemble everything: I didn’t have anymore wing nuts for the threaded rod that holds everything together. I also didn’t want to go to the local hardware store to buy them, so I quickly pivoted and came up with an alternative.
This spring, I took two Ikea chairs apart and built gardening trellises with them. On those chairs, the arms are attached to the main frame with bolts that are threaded for about an inch and twist into a female version, and everything is tightened with allen wrenches. They were a bit longer than I needed, and because the threads didn’t run the full length of the bolt, I couldn’t cut them down. Instead, I cut additional spacers for the easel. That fixed one issue. The other issue was that the bolt was thicker than the rod, so I had to use a larger drill bit. Plus, because the female end was wider still, I used an even larger bit but only drilled into the right leg a length equal to the female end. In the end, everything went together and works well. Here’s the final product:
The phone easel I made for myself
I’m not as happy with this one. Having to think on my feet to address the lack of wing nuts changed the aesthetics of the easel in a way that I’m not that happy with. Even though it looks artistic, it doesn’t have the refined look of Magz’s easel. I do think that the extra spacers on the outside of the legs are pretty cool because it was wood that I joined together, but I may still change it in the future. Ultimately, though, it works and does its job, so I can’t be too frustrated with it.
I really enjoy working on these small woodworking projects. They’re quick and generally have a lot of room for error. This is also a project I’d probably consider making as presents or selling in the future if that happens. If you’re a woodworker and are interested in more details about these and how I made them, please don’t hesitate to leave a comment.
I write a lot about hobbies on the blog. So far, I’ve written posts about gardening, woodworking, and bowling, but I also enjoy playing guitar, model making, card making, cross-stitching, reading, and video games. Plus, I recently bought a pair of binoculars for bird and sky watching. I really like hobbies because they’re a great way of passing the time while keeping your hands busy and learning a new skill. I think my love of hobbies comes naturally.
My dad and grandparents all participated in their hobbies when I was growing up and showed how important they can be to a balanced life. Hobbies were a form of relaxation for them as well as a way to keep the mind engaged. Hobbies were never supposed to be something that cost a lot of money, and it was okay to do things as frugally as needed to make it work.
Recently, I’ve started to notice a shift in how people approach hobbies. Perhaps it’s not how the majority of people approach them, but it is what is conveyed on social media, YouTube, and forums, including Reddit. This shift has been both frustrating and saddening, and it’s what I’m writing about in this post.
Internet Is Making Hobbies Elitist
Before diving in, I don’t mean that the hobbies themselves are elitist or for people we consider to be elite. There have always been some hobbies that are associated with the wealthy and upper class: fox hunting, motorsports, sailing, polo, etc. Those haven’t changed. It still takes a lot of money, time, and connections to gain entry into these clubs and hobbies.
The ones I’m thinking about are those that have always been approachable by the vast majority of people. The ones that don’t need to cost a lot of money to start in, and your investment can increase the more interested you become. The hobbies I listed above largely fall into this category. These are the hobbies that I feel are under attack. It still doesn’t need to cost a lot of money to get started in some of these hobbies, but the narratives around them, and therefore the barrier to access them, have changed. It’s not necessarily a financial element, either. In some cases, it’s actually cheaper to get started in hobbies than it used to be. Yet, if you buy into the narrative, you come out of it feeling that hobbies aren’t for everyone. It’s my belief that the internet has played a key role in establishing this barrier, and nowhere is it more evident than on social media and YouTube.
Social Media & YouTube’s Role
If you have watched YouTube or used social media for any amount of time, you’ve seen the explosive growth of influencer culture. People are selling and promoting every item, activity, and lifestyle that you can imagine. Creating content on YouTube and social media has become a full-time job for some people, with much of that income stemming from brand ambassadorships. Companies will pay these creators to test (not in an objective manner) and promote these products, and oftentimes, these products typically aren’t that cheap. From there, successful marketing takes place: viewers and consumers feel that they need to buy the product that their favorite creator is peddling even if a more cost-effective option would better serve their needs.
The second aspect of YouTube and social media that I hate is the presentation of perfection. Both platforms are designed to share a skewed version of life that doesn’t show the struggles and failures. My favorite YouTube channels are the authentic ones that either include the struggles and failures they encounter or who acknowledge that the channel is only sharing a curated version of reality. I’ve encountered a lot of woodworking YouTube channels that only share the perfected final product and cut any of the mistakes that naturally occur when working on a project. I can’t tell you how many times during a woodworking project that I have to redo a cut or alter a design because the original one was going to fail. An internet creator choosing to leave these elements out of the final video or post creates a false expectation for the viewer that if they don’t achieve the same level of perfection, they’re a failure. In reality, woodworking and any other hobby are difficult, especially at the beginning. There will be failures as you learn and grow, but the failures refine and hone you into someone who is better at that hobby. But when we see creators that skip over the growth portion of a hobby and only show the success, it creates false expectations and disappointment.
These same creators are also usually the ones who only use the most expensive tools. A lot of woodworking YouTubers have shops full of SawStop and Festool tools, which are incredibly expensive. For example, the collapsible SawStop table saw is $1,700, and the cordless Festool table saw is $1,500. Meanwhile, my Ridgid collapsible table saw is $549, and I paid less for it when I bought it. My table saw isn’t perfect, and I’d eventually like to upgrade it, but it makes all the same cuts that the more expensive models do. My dad and grandfather built some amazing furniture on affordable tools and never needed the highest-price versions. It used to be a widely accepted belief that you would start a hobby with entry-level or used equipment, but a lot of people have abandoned that idea. The combination of creators only showing a perfect finished product that they built with top-of-the-line equipment yields a mentality that tells you that you must have that equipment to achieve those results. And even though we may be able to rationalize that it’s not true, when we’re struggling with something, it’s easy to convince ourselves that our tools and equipment are the culprits. If we don’t have the budget to buy the equipment that the creators use, it is easy to reach the point of abandoning a hobby we once were passionate about.
This brings me to my final point about social media and YouTube: obsession with luxury goods. As a society, we seem to be obsessed with luxury goods. People love to walk around with a brand label on their clothing or bag and will pay obscene amounts of money for a name regardless of the quality. I’ve been guilty of this in the past when I became driven to buy clothing at Polo by Ralph Lauren. I bought a pair of jeans that I had high expectations of, and while they’re comfortable and have lasted more than two years, the denim is thin, and I don’t think the quality is better than some Wranglers I own. Magz has shown me these incredible videos that analyze other creators sharing their shopping “hauls” at luxury stores. They’ll spend thousands of dollars on one trip as though it were $10. As I mentioned in the paragraph above, woodworking isn’t exempt from this. People only want to be seen using the most expensive tools even though it rarely has any impact on how good of a woodworker the person is.
I used woodworking as the main hobby in this section, but I think it rings true with other hobbies. Guitar players only want to be seen playing a premium model, usually a Gibson or Fender. Gamers need the newest and most powerful systems. Regardless of the subject, social media and YouTube only present the best and often most expensive versions of things, and unfortunately, it has an impact.
Take Back Your Hobby
If there’s a hobby you used to enjoy but have stopped because you don’t feel like you belong anymore, please put those thoughts out of your mind. The internet can be an awesome tool, but it can also be a horrible place. Online creators usually publish content with some sort of an agenda in mind and are rarely unbiased. They’re paid by brands to promote products, not to perform objective testing. And it’s always worth keeping in mind that what you see on the internet, especially visual media, is often the edited version that is curated to tell the intended story. It’s usually unpopular to tell truthful stories that highlight struggles, so the creators omit those parts. Likewise, showing themselves using the most expensive or perceived “best” products connotes wealth even if it’s artificial. You don’t need those same expensive tools to achieve wonderful results. You only need enough to accomplish your goal and to get interested in the hobby. Take it back, and don’t let the internet steal your fun and joy.
Two posts ago, I wrote about a series of woodworking projects that allowed me to use my new band saw. Prior to working on those projects, I had never used a band saw, and they gave me the opportunity to gain familiarity with the saw and make all the cuts you can on a band saw. After having the saw for nearly a month now, I want to give a review of the saw.
Ryobi Band Saw
In this review, I will go over the pros and cons of the saw as well as if I recommend buying it. Something I won’t include in my list of pros and cons is anything I knew about the saw before buying it, including the size.
Ryobi Band Saw Specs
The band saw I bought is, to my knowledge, the only woodworking band saw that Ryobi makes. Here’s the link on Ryobi’s site. It’s a 9-inch band saw with a 2.5 amp motor. It’s a benchtop model and uses a 62-inch saw blade, which can be turned at a speed of up to 3,000 RPMs. It has a 6-foot power cord and has a table that is 14.75″ x 11.75″.
Pros
Portability & Weight
When considering tools, size and weight are two important aspects. I tend to buy benchtop versions because I don’t have the floor space in my shop to have floor versions of every tool. Currently, the only tools I have that are floor versions are my table saw, which collapses down and is on wheels, and my jointer, which is huge and takes up too much space. My drill press, planer, and band saw are all bench versions. Benchtop tools are small enough to be stored when not in use, which is a big convenience, especially if you don’t need the larger, floor version. Weight is a big factor in how portable these benchtop tools actually are. For example, my planer weighs 73 pounds. It’s movable, but it isn’t fun to lift on top of my table. Thankfully, the band saw is much lighter at 44 pounds, and it’s not awkward to lift and carry around.
Cost
A tool’s cost is indirectly connected to whether it is a floor or bench version. Because bench versions are smaller and often considered more entry-level, they’re typically more affordable than a floor version. My tactic when buying a tool is to buy the best I can find within my budget. It’s why I often look at our outlet’s tool store or Harbor Freight. Both make it easy to find quality tools at a fraction of the cost of the yellow, blue, or red brands. I’ve had great luck with Ryobi and Ridgid, which I can buy as refurbished or blemished from the outlet store, as well as Harbor Freight.
For example, my band saw at full price is $220 at Home Depot. At the outlet store, it was around $200 before their 40% off sale made it just over $100. Without the sale, the price would have been comparable to Harbor Freight’s bench band saw, which sells for $200. Grizzly makes one that is $325, and the prices go up from there. You can find cheaper versions on Amazon, but it’s wise to be careful of brands. Simply put, a $200 band saw that works very well is a great find. I will easily get $200 worth of use and fun from it.
Ease of Use
Band saws are one of the safest tools in a woodshop. You need to be careful of where your hands and fingers are in relation to the blade, but it’s not uncommon to have your hand within an inch of the blade. Cutting curves on it is a breeze. You simply turn the wood through the blade, and as long as you make relief cuts when trying to make tight turns, you will be successful. The ergonomics contribute to this. I really enjoy the height of everything. When it’s on my table, the saw’s work surface is close to chest level, putting me in a very safe position to make cuts. I also like where the power switch is, which is located to the left of the work surface. It’s easy to turn on and off with one hand, giving you the chance to kill the power if a problem arises.
Finally, it’s easy to make adjustments. Raising and lowering the clearance around the blade only requires the turn of a dial. Tilting the surface is only a two-step process, and replacing the blade looks to be fairly painless. You don’t have to be an experienced woodworker to use this band saw, making it a great tool for beginners and veterans alike.
Setup
From opening the box to making cuts, it only took about 15 minutes. The saw already had the blade installed, which made things very easy. The only parts that had to be installed were the table and the tilt wheel. The instructions were easy to follow and included clear pictures. You do need to make sure that the table is level and square to the blade, but patience and trial and error helped with this.
Power
Woodworking forums and Reddit are awful for “advice” when it comes to tools. The vast majority of the commenters are negative people who try to talk prospective woodworkers out of staying within their budget. To them, buying a band saw for less than $500 would be unthinkable. I bring that up to say that those threads will have you believe that a bench top band saw is going to be too underpowered to do anything productive. And I’m here to say that they’re wrong. Perhaps at one time, bench top saws were underpowered, but the modern versions seem to do very well. Like any saw, you need to be careful not to rush when making cuts, and the sharpness and quality of the blade will impact the cut’s success, but I’ve already worked with red oak, cherry, pine, and more and haven’t had any issues with the saw’s power.
Easy to Clean
This category is one that I didn’t think about when I first began buying woodworking tools. I have a Metabo miter saw that I love; however, the dust collection system is underwhelming. Similarly, I have a Ridgid table saw, and it’s the same story. I connect a vacuum to it when making cuts, but it only collects about 75% of the sawdust. After I finish using it, I go through and vacuum the sawdust from nooks and crannies, but I still have to take it outside once every few months and run compressed air through everything.
To contrast those saws, the Ryobi band saw has been really easy to clean. It has a dust port that can connect to a vacuum, although my shop vac’s hose is too narrow. Still, everything is open and easy to access with the vacuum. There are two doors to open to access the blade, and some saw dust will collect in there, but a quick pass of the vacuum cleans everything. I’ve never owned another band saw, so I don’t know if this is common among all band saws, but the Ryobi one is a breeze to keep clean.
Cons
Lack of a Work Light
I knew that this saw didn’t have a work light when I bought it, but what I didn’t know is how much of a detriment it would be. It may only be an issue because of how my shop’s lighting is, but depending on where I have the saw positioned in my shop and what the exterior lighting is (cloudy versus sunny), it can be difficult to see when making cuts. The shape of the saw’s frame can create a shadow across the work surface, making it tough to see where the blade is in relation to the line. A quick remedy of a portable shop light or a headlamp will address this, but a built-in light would have been really nice. My Ryobi drill press has one, and the same light on the band saw would make cutting easier.
No Fence
Again, I knew that the saw didn’t come with a fence, but because I hadn’t used a band saw before, I didn’t realize how helpful a fence would be. A fence would help with making straight cuts or replicating cuts across multiple pieces. I know that I can make a fence for the saw, but other bench top band saws, including Harbor Freight’s Bauer saw, come with one.
Miter Gauge Flimsiness
I’ve only used the miter gauge once so far, but I wasn’t impressed with it. A widely held opinion is that most miter gauges that come with saws are junk. The one that came with my table saw is okay, but it certainly isn’t perfect. The band saw’s miter gauge is pretty flimsy. There is more plastic than I would prefer, and it’s pretty narrow. I don’t think I’ll use it often, so it’s not a huge deal, but there is room for improvement with it.
Would I Recommend the Ryobi Band Saw?
Absolutely. I know that I don’t have anything to compare it to, but I love this saw. Its affordability, power, and maneuverability make it a no-brainer. It has made all the cuts I’ve needed it to, and I love the freedom it has provided me compared to using a jigsaw. Granted, I know that I won’t be able to resaw boards wider than 3 1/2 inches, but I’m okay with that. I have a table saw for that. If you or someone you know has been interested in expanding their woodworking tools with a band saw but doesn’t want to spend an arm and a leg on one, you should consider the Ryobi. It gets the job done and at a very reasonable price.
A few weeks ago, I picked up a Ryobi 9″ band saw that was on an incredible sale. We live close to an outlet, and one of the stores there is Direct Factory Tools, which sells factory-blemished or -refurbished Ryobi and Rigid tools. When the tools aren’t on sale, the prices are usually about $10-20 cheaper than Home Depot for the same, unblemished product; however, several times each year, they run 40% off sales, which makes things very affordable. The band saw was factory-blemished and was only $120, and it works great.
I know some woodworkers and people in general would balk at the idea of buying refurbished or blemished tools, but it’s a great way to build out your woodshop when you’re on a budget or don’t want to overspend on a tool you’re unfamiliar with or won’t use often. So far, I’ve bought a refurbished planer, belt sander, jig saw, and reciprocating saw as well as a blemished drill press from there, and all have worked perfectly. I’ve probably saved thousands of dollars buying tools this way, and in time, I’ll probably upgrade or replace them, but it’s been a wonderful way to develop as a woodworker without overspending.
I put off buying a band saw for a few years but finally succumbed to the realization that they’re incredibly useful. It allows a woodworker to cut curves and intricate designs as well as resaw lumber in a safe and controlled way. A jigsaw can cut curves, but it usually isn’t precise and doesn’t leave a clean finished product because the blade flexes. I also thought about buying a scroll saw but ultimately went for the larger and more powerful saw.
If you’re unfamiliar with scroll saws, they operate similarly to a sewing machine in that they have a small blade that pivots up and down. You’re able to make extremely precise cuts and tight curves with it and can start cutting from inside a hole with the detachable blade. But the biggest downside of a scroll saw is the maximum thickness you’re able to cut with it. While there’s a lot of overlap between a band saw and a scroll saw, there are things that can be done with one but not the other, so there’s a reason to have both. A band saw is more helpful for my needs at this time, so I went with that first.
After I got everything set up, this was the first time I’ve used a band saw, and thankfully, it’s really easy and fun to use. And perhaps the best thing is that it’s a relatively safe type of saw to use compared to a table saw. In the weeks since I bought the saw, I’ve been spending a lot of time familiarizing myself with it and working on some really cool projects that I want to share in this post.
Back Scratcher
With the band saw set up, I wanted to experiment with all the cuts that can be done on it, starting with cutting curves. For some reason, I decided to split a two-inch-thick piece of wood in half, and from there began making curved cuts. I started to see the shape of a handle coming out of the cuts. I remembered that my grandparents always had a back scratcher in their house and began making cuts to create one. It was really easy to get the curve of the “claws” of the scratcher. From there, I shaped the handle and cut out the spacing between the claws. Only taking about 10 minutes to cut out, I was amazed at how easy the band saw made things and was immediately hooked.
back scratcher
I had the second half of the wood I started with, so I quickly cut a second one, sanded everything on the drum sander attachment for my drill press, and was done. They aren’t perfect, but they work really well and can be improved upon. I also can see how handled items like kitchen utensils can be easily made with the band saw. I made wooden spoons in the past using a jigsaw and rotary tool, but it will be much easier now. Looking back, I now wonder if my grandfather made the backscratchers they had.
Thumb Book Page Holder
I love reading, and I recently saw these wooden page holders that go over your thumb so that you can keep the book open with one hand and not hurt your thumb. This was also the time when I was looking at band saw projects, and it turns out that Magz actually told me about these a few years ago, but I had forgotten about them. While these page holders can be made with other saws, the band saw just made it so much easier. I took a two-inch by four-inch block, found the center, and drilled a 7/8-inch hole with a forstner bit. Next, I drew a rough outline of what I wanted the shape to be and began freehand cutting it on the saw. With it cut out, I took it to the drum sander attachment and smoothed everything.
thumb book page holder
This was a really cool project that came together really fast. It took only about 10 minutes from start to finish, and I underestimated how helpful it is. Holding a book open with one hand isn’t comfortable and can put strain on the thumb. The page holder eliminates that problem.
Guitar Pick Holder
This project was the most complicated and complex of the ones I cover in this post. When coming up with projects I could use my band saw on, I began thinking about a way to clean up my guitar stand/amp holder, which has become cluttered with picks, capos, and cords. I wanted something to store everything to organize things a bit better. Initially, I thought about building a band saw box that is shaped like the body of my Yamaha Pacifica, but I then stumbled upon an image of a pick holder that looks like the headstock of a guitar coming out of the body. That sparked what I eventually designed and built.
I knew that I wanted this piece to be artistic and take inspiration from my own guitars. I have four guitars: three acoustics and one electric. I love my Ibanez acoustic-electric, which has a beautiful cutout in the body, but the head isn’t overly unique from other acoustics. Because of that, I wanted to use my Pacifica as the inspiration because it follows the Fender Stratocaster styling, which is one of the most iconic guitar shapes of all time.
pick holder basehead stock of the pick holder
Designing it was a lot of fun because the base can’t be a 1:1 scale of the actual guitar, yet the headstock can be true size. I freehanded the shape of the body into my notebook and traced the head onto printer paper. I cut out the head shape and traced it onto the piece of cherry I wanted to use. For the body, I again freehanded the shape onto two pieces of oak that I joined together.
I quickly cut out the pieces, being careful not to cut through the “fins” of the body. From there, I took the pieces to the drum sander attachment until everything was smooth. I went back to the band saw to cut out the slots for the picks and attached the head to the body with two screws. Finally, I drilled two holes and glued dowels that I wanted to add to hold my slide and leather wrist pick holder. And with that, it was done.
Guitar Pick Holder
I think these projects have given me a wonderful start to using my band saw. None of them are necessarily perfect, but I learned and improved with each of them. I love my pick holder more than I can describe and am incredibly proud of how it turned out. I’m looking forward to what else I can build with my band saw moving forward.
Last August, Magz’s family dog, Sully, passed away. He was 15 years old, and they had him for over 14 years. He was a Yorkie Bichon and was the first small dog I got to spend a lot of time around. Before I got to know him, I wasn’t a fan of small dogs, but Sully changed my perception. He was quirky, cool, playful, energetic, and fun. He had high emotional intelligence and could sense when someone wasn’t feeling well, emotionally or physically, and knew how to make you feel better. As someone who grew up with medium and large dogs, it took me a while to get used to picking him up and holding him close, but I learned to love it. I think Sully played a big role in us adopting Mia because he helped me become comfortable with a small pet.
About a month or so after he passed away, I approached Magz’s parents, after talking to her, about making a shadow box to remember Sully by displaying his favorite things. They were good with it, so Magz’s mom and I set about coming up with a design.
Designing the Shadow Box
There are a lot of variations when it comes to shadow boxes. Some have glass doors on them, some have a rigid glass front and can only be accessed from the back, and others are open without any glass. I had a large piece of glass that was sent to me by mistake when I was ordering glass for picture frame projects a few years ago. I knew it would be perfect for this project, so everything was designed around that.
Magz’s mom wanted a door on the front, like a medicine cabinet, which I quickly agreed to and said I could build it. Spoiler alert: this ended up being a lot harder than I anticipated, but more on that later. We went with a simple rectangle shape with a shelf near the bottom. This would create a cubby to display his favorite toys. On the shelf will go his collar and other small items. Finally, there is a place at the top where one of his sweaters or pajamas can be hung and rotated out.
The rough plans for Sully’s shadow box.
Designing a cabinet around the glass size was a real test. Because I’m unable to resize the glass, everything is based on its dimensions. The first step was designing the doorframe. There were three dimensions to figure out:
How big the display “window” will be. This determines how much of the glass you can see through into the box. For this piece, I wanted these dimensions to match the interior dimensions of the box so that the inside of the doorframe would be flush with the inside of the box. This would give a seamless appearance.
How deep the glass would sit inside the doorframe. When installing glass in a cabinet door, it’s common to cut a groove into the frame for the glass to sit. This groove is called a dado, and its depth has to be factored into how much glass you see.
How wide you want the doorframe pieces to be. For this door, I wanted the top, bottom, and left pieces to have the same width, while the right piece was going to be a bit wider to accommodate a chamfer I was cutting for the reveal where you place your hand to open the door.
Those dimensions provided the dimensions for the box itself. Knowing how big the box was going to be and where the shelf would sit in the box, I was able to start cutting and assembling.
Building the Shadow Box
I went with Poplar for this project. Poplar is a really interesting species of lumber because it’s technically a hardwood but is lighter than oak or maple and even softer than pine, a softwood. However, it’s much easier to work with than pine. It didn’t chip when cutting, and it takes paint incredibly well. I learned through this project that it even takes stain well as long as it’s a high-quality piece. I had never worked with Poplar before this, but I had bought a few 8-foot boards the last time I ordered lumber and have been looking for a project to use it on. For something that is going to hang on a wall, like this shadow box, Poplar was perfect.
The lumber I had was a true 1×6, so one inch thick and six inches wide. I cut all the pieces to length and width and ran them through the planer until they were 3/4-inch thick. I used my router and dovetail jig to cut dovetails for the corner joints and set up my dado stack on my table saw and cut grooves on the side pieces to hold the shelf. I glued the joints and shelf in place and used a small brad nail where needed until the glue set up.
Afterward, I moved on to the doorframe, which was much more difficult. I cut three of the sides to 3/4-inch wide and the fourth side to 1 1/4 inches. I ran all four pieces through the table saw to cut the groove where the glass would sit, and then the trouble began.
Glass + Nail Gun + Sander = Disaster?
It took me little time to put the shadow box together. I believe I finished it last October or November. After cutting all the pieces for the door, I even glued three of the sides together after making sure the glass fit. Everything was a simple butt joint with a brad nail to hold it in place. It was easy-peasy. The fourth side caused problems. I struggled mightily over the order of operations for this.
Should I sand, stain, and finish everything before assembly to avoid getting stain on the glass? But if I do that, gluing a piece of wood with polyurethane on it can be troublesome. I realized that the best option would be to assemble before staining and just tape off the glass. How do I glue the pieces together while the glass is in place when I can’t use a nail until the glue sets? This last question caused me to delay finishing the project for, no joke, nine months. I was concerned that I would either break the glass, ruining the entire project, or that the joint wouldn’t hold.
Eventually, I worked up the courage to place the portion I already had glued (left side, bottom, and right side) into a vise with a towel around it. I slid the glass into the groove, glued the fourth piece, and clamped the heck out of it. I let it go overnight, and by the next day, the glue held. Voila, I could move on to the next step!
Hinges, Magnet, Clasps, and Final Touches
From the beginning, the intention was to use a piano/continuous hinge and magnets for the closure. A piano hinge can run nearly the entire length of the piece and can hold a lot of weight. This type of hinge is also less likely to twist when installing. Magz’s mom asked about magnets for the closure because they’re hidden.
The hinge installment was pretty seamless, with the only hiccup being that the screws were too long for the door side of the hinge. I was concerned about them contacting the glass, so I snipped them off. I drilled and attached the hinge before staining. I had never used magnets in a woodworking project before, so that was a learning opportunity. I thought I bought ones that were strong enough for this use, but that proved to not be the case.
The front of the shadowboxInterior of the shadow boxSide profile of the shadow box.
I drilled holes for the magnets with a forstner bit and attached them with epoxy. That was also the first time I’ve used epoxy, and I was shocked by how bad the smell was. With one in place on the door side, I made a mark on it to see where the hole should be drilled on the box side. I attached that one too only to learn that the magnet wasn’t strong enough. I ultimately used four more magnets and still didn’t feel that it was strong enough to hold the door shut. So I ended up ordering a swing arm clasp that looks vintage and does a great job of holding the door closed. It also matches the stain and finish of the shadowbox.
I didn’t talk about this above, but I used a piece of quarter-inch pine plywood for the back. For the stain, I went with dark walnut from Minwax. I also used dark walnut wood filler, which was nearly a perfect match. I finished everything with three coats of oil-based polyurethane. I removed the hinge and taped off the glass before staining everything. The color is rich and vibrant and brings out the grain of the Poplar. The finish only strengthened this. With it done, I pulled the tape off, scraped any sprinkles off the glass, cleaned the glass, and it was done.
I eventually added a couple of attachment points in case the box is hung with screws. I also added two eye hooks for picture-hanging wire in case that gets used.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, I loved working on this project. It challenged me in ways I’ve never experienced, and I learned new skills, which is always fun. I’m really proud of the finished product and think my in-laws will be too. I set out to build something that would honor and memorialize Sully, and I think I did that. He was an incredibly vital member of the family, and their house doesn’t feel the same without him there. I still don’t know if I’m a small dog person. But I know that I was a fan of Sully, and I miss him. It was an honor to design and build something for him.
If you’re interested in building a shadowbox and are unsure how to go about it, I’d love to help.
In 2021, we bought a pair of Ikea Poang chairs. They’re pretty iconic and are what many people envision when they think about Ikea chairs. We used to sit in them every time we would shop at Ikea and dream of buying them when it made sense. That time came in 2021, and at first, we loved them. However, over time, they lost their luster. They were really low to the ground, making them hard to get out of, and they were narrow, so it was difficult to work on a computer or do anything with your hands, like cross-stitch or knit.
Ikea Poang chair
After moving in 2024, we decided that these would become outdoor chairs on our porch. Although the chairs weren’t designed to be outdoors, the wood can be treated to resist the weather, and the cushions were brought inside at night. They worked decently well on the porch; however, the same design flaws persisted: too narrow and low. When we built our table and stools, we no longer had a need for the Ikea chairs since the stools are primarily where we sit. And when we want something more “loungey” or have people visiting, we have folding chairs that recline flat. When not in use, they can be folded and stored away, taking up less space than the Ikea chairs. That left us with a decision to be made about the Ikea chairs.
We aren’t people to throw things away unnecessarily, and we didn’t want to donate these chairs because they sat outside for nearly a year. Throughout the entire process, Magz had the idea of trying to use these chairs in our garden. We talked about simply setting a planter where the seat would be and letting nature take over them, as well as cutting out the seat support and growing a plant up from the ground through the chair. Eventually, I had the idea of using the back of the chair as a trellis system. You can’t see it in the above picture, but behind the cushion are two vertical pieces with several horizontal pieces between them, creating a ladder system. That’s essentially what a trellis is anyway. So, with that in mind, I set out to make it all happen.
Disassembly, Design, and Construction
If you’ve ever put together a piece of Ikea furniture, you know that they are all pretty similar. All of the individual wooden (or wood-adjacent) pieces are connected with screws, bolts, or barrel nuts (I had to look up what they’re called). Although assembly can be overly complicated, once you’ve put one piece of Ikea furniture together, you have an idea of how everything goes together. And while durability and longevity aren’t Ikea’s strong points, thankfully, it was a bonus in this case, because as easily as the chairs went together, they came apart.
With the pieces separated, we were left with two cross pieces, the back section that will be used for the trellis, two seat support pieces, and the two large side pieces that comprise the arms and bottoms for each chair. There was a seat section for each chair that was incredibly difficult to pull the staples from. We ended up getting rid of that piece. The back of each chair was the original inspiration for this project, but as I took the chairs apart, I could see ways to use the remaining pieces. The sides can either be cut down for individual lengths of wood or can be transformed into a planter stand. Meanwhile, the cross pieces will be used to build additional planters or in another woodworking project in the future. I typically don’t throw anything away if there’s a possibility that it can be used again.
The first upcycle Ikea Poang chair into a garden planter.
Designing the planters for the back pieces was straightforward. I measured the width of them, added two inches, and that was the interior width of the planters. I had a bunch of leftover pressure-treated 1x6s from last year’s porch project. I kept them their full width and cut pieces to length to make the four sides of the planters. Initially, I thought I would need to have two rows of these boards so that each planter was roughly 11 inches tall. However, after attaching the sides for each planter and feeling confident that one row would provide enough dirt and be sturdy enough to not tip over, I kept the planters separate. This was great, because it meant I had two planters mostly finished when I thought I only had one planter halfway done.
With that decision made, I had to figure out the bottom. I did this by using scrap pieces and ripping full-width pieces on the table saw to cover the opening. I also added support pieces for extra attachment points. Also, a note on the connectors I used. For the most part, I used coated exterior 1 1/4-inch screws that went into pre-drilled holes to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting. This mostly worked; however, there were times when I used exterior brad nails for efficiency and simplicity. I also used outdoor-rated wood glue to hold everything together. I’m confident that these planters are built well and should stay together for the foreseeable future.
Next up was the most complicated part: attaching the back piece to the planter. On the chair, this piece connected to a cross member with a short bolt that screwed into an enclosed nut that was pressed into the back side of the piece. There was no way to reuse this setup with the planter since the bolt was too short. Instead, I determined that a 3/8-inch bolt would go through the existing hole. I managed to clamp the back piece to the planter in order to drill a small pilot hole through the plant. I then drilled that hole out with a bigger bit and ran a zinc-coated bolt through everything and tightened it down with a nut. With both sides connected, I added a screw through both pieces on each side to make sure everything is secure. And with that, it was all done.
Both upcycled Ikea Poang chair trellis planters.
In total, I think each planter took about two hours, and it was pretty easy to bring this idea to fruition. I’m also very proud of our ability to reuse and upcycle something that a lot of people would have thrown away. I’m really excited to plant in these this year and see how beans or cucumbers will climb the trellis system. I’ll definitely follow up with other posts about how we reuse the other pieces (if they’re used in a garden-related project) as well as how successful these planters are. If you’re interested in doing something like this, don’t be afraid to take a chance and upcycle something into a planter for your garden. It’s a lot of fun and gives your garden extra character.
Last year, Magz and I screened in our back porch. It’s an elevated concrete slab that had railings on all three sides except for where the steps are located. We removed the railings, strengthened the posts that hold up the roof, and screened in the three sides. We closed in the two ends so that the screen goes from waist height to the roof for privacy, while the back has floor-to-ceiling screens with French doors where the steps are located. The project was a success in the sense that we had more privacy with plenty of airflow and some protection from the elements, including rain. It also reduced the number of bugs, bees, and flies that we have to deal with, but we still didn’t use the porch as much as we thought we would.
That was largely due to the outdoor furniture that we had. The only option we had that was designed to be outdoors was a narrow glider we bought from Aldi a few years ago. And although it’s comfortable for one person, it’s quite narrow and isn’t comfortable for two people to share. We also repurposed two Ikea Poang chairs that we had previously used inside but no longer had a need for. Although they weren’t intended to be used outdoors, they held up since they weren’t directly exposed to the elements. While these chairs worked, they aren’t the most comfortable, especially if you want to do anything with your hands while sitting in them, like typing, cross-stitching, or knitting. This led to us deciding that we wanted something different, and since I really enjoy building things and hate spending money unnecessarily, we designed and built our alternatives.
The Design
Building outdoor furniture is something I’ve wanted to do for a long time. Outdoor tables, benches, chairs, and swings are projects that call to me, but I didn’t have anything designed or planned. So, on a lovely Saturday in February, Magz mentioned that she’d like to figure out our outdoor furniture before the weather was really nice and we wanted to be on the porch. Quickly, we came up with a design.
For the table, we wanted something wide enough for us both to sit at it and deep enough that we could play board games or work at it. We also wanted something higher than a coffee table. For the seats, we discussed one long bench versus two individual stools, ultimately choosing the two stools. The freedom for each of us to choose how close or far we sit to the table was important, and having sat at the table multiple times now, it was the right decision.
We were going for something simple and durable. We were fine with it being made of dimensional lumber to make the building process as straightforward as possible. As much as I love building fine woodworking projects, when it comes to outdoor furniture, using dimensional lumber that is designed for strength is often the right move. Here is the design I came up with:
Outdoor table design
When it came to materials, my initial thought was to buy pressure-treated lumber. It would be great to buy cedar, teak, or composite to build this type of furniture, but those are all very expensive. Plus, cedar and teak will eventually break down over time and need maintenance, and composite lumber requires specific saw blades designed to cut it. All three types are also really difficult to find where we live. I love watching old New Yankee Workshop episodes and think that Norm Abram is an excellent woodworker and craftsman, but one of the least relatable elements of the show is his ability to get exotic wood species or high-end cabinet-grade plywood locally. Finding those in store would require at least an hour’s drive, which isn’t worth it most of the time.
Meanwhile, pressure-treated lumber is readily available; however, it isn’t cheap in our town. We don’t have a local Home Depot or Lowe’s, so we rely on regional franchises for lumber and building supplies if we don’t want to leave town. One of the local stores, 84 Lumber, (the same store we bought our materials to screen in the porch) was charging $2 more per 2×4 than Home Depot and $1 more than the other local store, Busy Beaver. 84 Lumber also stores most of their lumber outside, so running it through a saw isn’t a pleasant experience. Even at Busy Beaver, the pressure-treated 2x4s were more than $1 more than kiln-dried pine 2x4s, which led me to begin considering pine as an alternative.
Pressure-treated lumber has its advantages, with the biggest being that it’s designed to withstand the elements. However, it also has its disadvantages. It can be quite expensive, is heavy and often damp, and it will destroy saw blades. Meanwhile, pine can be a great alternative. It’s cheaper, for one. It’s also pretty light since it should be kiln-dried, so it’s easier to maneuver, and it’s easy to cut. And while it doesn’t have the weather protection of pressure-treated lumber, it can be coated with finish or exterior paint and will do well outside. It will need recoated, and it’s best to not let it directly touch the ground, but it can last a long time. Combining all of those together, we decided on buying regular pine. In total, I think we bought 16 8-foot 2x4s and 5 8-foot 1x6s. We also have a bunch of paint left over from the screened-in porch project, so we didn’t need to buy any. After acquiring the lumber, it was time to start cutting and assembling.
Assembly
Building the table was really easy. In 2020, I built a similarly designed table that we currently have in our kitchen. It’s quite straightforward. Working together, we measured and cut all pieces of the same length for the frame. We then pre-drilled the holes, using a pocket hole jig where normal 2 1/2-inch screws wouldn’t work. Along with the screws, we used exterior-rated wood glue to secure the joints. With the frame assembled, we moved on to the top, where once again, we measured and cut all the slats to length at the same time, ensuring consistency. Three of the slats were full 5 1/2-inch wide boards, while the fourth had to be ripped to be narrower. We allowed for a 1/2-inch overhang on the front for aesthetic purposes and roughly an 1/8-inch gap between the slats. They also weren’t glued to the frame and were only attached with screws to allow for expansion due to humidity. After cutting a round over on the front edge with my router and a quick sand, it was ready for paint.
The stools were a bit more difficult to figure out. There’s generally a standard distance between the top of a stool and the underside of a table, but we adjusted it a bit to be more comfortable for us. With that measurement, I had to work down to calculate the length of the legs. With that number, I could move to cutting, using full-width 2x4s for the legs. Quick note: I didn’t think about this, but stools are most comfortable, stable, and strong when the legs are cut on an angle. Initially, I was going to have them be perfectly straight but learned from a plan on Ana White’s website that they should be cut on a five-degree angle and bevel. Then, the rest of the pieces, including the apron and footrest, are only cut at a five-angle without the bevel.
Once the legs were cut, I cut the apron pieces that connect the legs and the seat slats. These were easy cuts, but the next step was pivotal. Because the angle and bevel of the legs are so minimal, it’s hard to tell which orientation the legs need to be in. On the first stool, I flipped the legs around a bunch of times until it was right, but with the second stool, I held the four legs up against each other and marked the inside corner on all. That made assembly more efficient down the road. The footrests and the remaining two supports (on sides perpendicular to the footrests) were cut individually and attached. Like the table, once the frames were together, the slats were easy. It was as simple as cutting all the pieces to length, allowing for a small gap between the slats and attaching with screws.
The Wrap-Up
The project flew by and was a lot of fun. On day one, we decided we were going to build these, came up with a design, bought the materials, and had the table’s frame assembled. The stools certainly took more time, but the entire project was done within two weeks, and we’ve been able to sit at the table several times already. It was also very affordable. I think we spent $140 on materials, including the screws, which is much cheaper than anything we could have bought of the same quality. It also could have been built with only minimal power tools, so I would recommend this project for anyone who doesn’t want to overspend on outdoor furniture. And if you find the wooden seats to be uncomfortable, you can always add an outdoor cushion.
The finished product.
Also, we didn’t get rid of our previous furniture. Our glider is going to be placed in front of our back porch in an area where we’re going to grow potatoes in bags. Meanwhile, the Ikea chairs are going to be disassembled, with the backs being used as trellises for climbing plants, and we’re going to build planters for them to connect to.
There are a few woodworking projects that are on my bucket list to complete in my life. My list includes a Morris chair, a dresser, a lamp, a bed frame, and a coffee table. For the past couple of months, I worked on crossing one of those off my list: the coffee table.
Why We Needed a Coffee Table
Before going into the details of the coffee table I designed and built, let’s first cover why we needed a new coffee table in the first place. Prior to the new one, we were using a gate leg dining room table that I had previously shortened the legs on to make it a more comfortable height for our couch. That had been our setup since May 2021, and it had worked for the most part. We were able to eat at our couch, and we could always put up both ends of the table if we needed the extra space. However, there were also some flaws that had always been present but were getting more annoying the longer we used it.
Finished coffee table
The first is that the table is really old and wasn’t maintained by the previous owners, who also happened to be the people Magz’s mom bought their house from. The table had also been stored in the basement for years, and the result was that the joints were loose, the top had scratches and scrapes in it, and the ends sag if the gate leg isn’t at a perfect 90-degree angle.
The second is that the table’s shape made it difficult to move around. We had to walk all the way around to access the other side of the couch rather than walking between the table and the couch. The gate leg also meant that we would bump into it on a daily basis, which caused anything on top of the table to spill due to the loose joints.
I had considered fixing and refinishing the table, but I think it would have been more hassle than it was worth. It quickly became evident that replacing it was the best option, and when there’s a choice of building vs. buying something, I will always build it.
Picking a Style & Designing the Table
Unless I know exactly what we want before I start designing a piece of woodworking piece, I turn to various books and online resources to determine the style. This usually means starting with craftsman or mission-style furniture. I love everything about these styles, including the warm tone of the wood, clean lines, and function over style. Think Frank Lloyd Wright or the famous Morris chair. I found many examples, the bulk of which had some form of storage, either immediately below the table-top or near the legs. There was a lot to like about a coffee table with built-in storage because we knew that we would be losing a drawer of storage in the gate leg table. However, we also wanted the option to sit at the coffee table with our legs underneath it, which made it difficult to also accommodate built-in storage. So, my search continued.
And here is where my study became interesting. I also have a book on Shaker furniture. Shaker furniture is named for the United Society of Believers in Christ, also known as Shakers, which was started in England in the 1720s and became organized in the United States later in the century. Shaker furniture is known for its durability and simplicity. You can still see well-preserved examples of this furniture at various Shaker museums in the New England region of the United States. Also, Shaker furniture was put on the radar of modern Americans thanks to Norm Abram’s New Yankee Workshop, where he visited several of the Shaker villages and replicated pieces of furniture. What surprised me, though, is that there were no coffee tables in the book I have, nor did Norm Abram recreate one on his TV program. And the reason for that is that coffee tables didn’t actually become a “thing” until the early 20th century. There were examples of low tables placed in the middle of sitting rooms that dated back to the late 18th century and the Victorian Era, but they weren’t called coffee tables until the 20th century.
Striking out here led me to begin looking at Japanese furniture. We love Japanese culture and design, and the floor tables they use would perfectly fit our needs for a coffee table. They’re close in height to what’s considered standard for coffee tables and are meant to be sat at with a person’s legs underneath. But what was still proving difficult to pinpoint was the exact style we wanted the table to have. Japanese woodworking is quite different from what is common in Western cultures. They use a lot of hand tools and feature carvings and intricate joinery in their projects. The design is exquisite and is tough to replicate. I’m certainly not at a place where I can confidently replicate something like that. That led me to finding this table and using it as my inspiration:
After determining the style of a project, I turn to SketchUp and create a 3D rendering of the item. If you don’t know what SketchUp is, it’s a web-based program that allows you to design 3D models. Once it’s designed, you can label the dimensions and print everything, which makes it really easy to use in the shop. There is a free and paid version of SketchUp. I use the free version, and it always fits my needs. From there, I like to transfer everything over to a piece of paper and draw specific portions of the project with a pencil. It helps me to see a specific joint or something that is hidden from view and would be difficult to see in a printout of the rendering. I’ll also use these sheets of paper as an opportunity to take any notes that I want to make sure I remember. It could be the size of a dado slot or the type of joint I’m using. The final thing I’ll jot down is a cut list. It includes the quantity I’ll need for each cut. This helps me to make all the same cuts at once, reducing the chance of unequal cuts.
The Materials
Going into this project, I knew that I wanted to incorporate two heavy planks into the table. They were originally used to move and store heavy pieces of equipment in an aircraft hangar, and we’ve had them for seven years since they were gifted to us. We originally had six of them, and four of them are currently being used: one acts as a shelf for us, and I made three of them into a mantle that is in our living room. The remaining two were originally used as the “hearth” for the mantle I built, but we haven’t used that piece since we bought our house and the mantle has been anchored to the wall. I disassembled the hearth piece, ran the planks through the planer, and was left with two pieces that were roughly 3 inches thick, 40 inches long, and 5 inches wide. Only having two pieces means that I couldn’t use them for the tabletop, so I was always planning to use them as the legs in some capacity.
Rough planks
For the top, I turned to my stash of red oak and pulled two 4/4 x 6-inch boards. In 2022, I bought a bunch of lumber that was earmarked for a few projects. I’ve since completed those projects (bookcase, guitar stand, and kitchen cabinet) and still have a few full-length pieces left. The last thing I needed was fasteners to attach the top to the frame. I was unsure how to do this, but eventually found figure-8 clips, which are brackets that attach to the frame and underside of the top, but no screws run through the two pieces, preserving the integrity of the wood.
Building the Table
At its root, this was a simple table build. It has legs and a hidden stretcher under the top, but there were two aspects that were initially confusing and had the potential to trip me up. The first was the shape of the legs. When you first look at the inspiration picture above, the tops of the legs look as though they are bent, which is a skill that I don’t currently possess. However, when you look more closely at it, you can see that only the vertical pieces of the leg frame are curved, where the joint with the horizontal pieces is. This creates the illusion of bent wood, but it’s much simpler. I decided to cut half-lap joints for this and then round over the outside pieces to give it a seamless look. I can’t tell what joint the inspiration piece uses, but I’m guessing it’s a mortise and tenon joint. I didn’t want to do that on such an important joint, and it needed more strength than what a standard butt joint delivers. A half-lap joint allows the weight and force of the tabletop to be shared across the vertical leg pieces rather than all being focused on the joint.
Leg pieces and half-lap joints cutLegs gluedStretcher attachedDry fitted before finish
The second aspect that was a bit confusing was how much framework to have under the tabletop. My original design only had a stretcher piece that connected the legs with spacers placed on top of it, which the top would connect to. As the piece came together, though, I wasn’t confident in it being strong enough, especially as we put our feet up on the table (it’s a coffee table, after all), ate at it, and played board games on it. I saw a scenario where the sides would sag in the future without support below. I addressed this by building a ladder-shaped support system that is placed on top of the stretcher and gave me roughly a dozen attachment points for the figure-8 clips.
With those design decisions made, building the table went smoothly. I limited the number of nails I used by only adding them to the leg joints, but even then, only on the top joints. Elsewhere, I drilled holes and used dowels to strengthen joints. I’m a big fan of how this looks. I also used biscuit joints to connect the four pieces used to create the tabletop. Biscuit joints are great because they’re much stronger than a basic butt joint, and biscuit jointers are easy to use once you get the hang of them.
Finishing the Table
Deciding how to finish this project wasn’t easy. In the inspiration picture, you can see that the top is very dark, while the legs appear to be finished naturally. At first, I thought that the top was a dark blue, but I now think it’s black. Either way, I had no intention of painting the top. I have a pretty rigid rule that prohibits me from painting woodworking projects built from hardwood that has beautiful grain patterns. My opinion is that if you want to paint a woodworking project, you should use a cheaper wood, like pine or poplar. The problem that arose was figuring out how to reach the level of saturation needed to get that dark color without turning to paint.
Milk paint was a possibility because you can thin it to still see the grain, but with Magz’s food allergies, we didn’t want to take a chance. You can also thin latex paint, but it’s difficult to create a consistent product and have an even finish. They also make solid stains, which sounds great in theory, but the product has very questionable reviews, citing a short working time, difficulty removing excess stain, and an uneven final product. Eventually, I’d like to give this a try, but I wasn’t going to use this project as a tester. Wood dyes were also a possibility, but like the solid stain, I don’t have experience dying wood and didn’t want to risk ruining this project. Plus, it was going to be expensive. That led me back to traditional wood stain, since they have several really dark tints, including ebony and true black. This stain isn’t perfect because it’s technically transparent, but I have experience layering coats of it to create a more saturated final product, so I was confident. With a half-pint of stain, a quart of oil-based polyurethane, a can of mineral spirits, and a fresh oil-based brush, I was ready to start.
Staining the table proved to be easy. With the surface sanded with 220-grit paper and tacked off, I applied a thick coat of stain before wiping off the excess. The wood absorbed the stain nicely, but it wasn’t dark enough. With the second coat, I let the stain sit for 10 minutes before lightly wiping the excess, which gave us the dark color we wanted. I then let the stain sit for 24 hours before applying the first coat of poly. In total, I applied four coats to the tabletop and three to the frame, lightly sanding between coats, and got a beautiful, glossy, hard finish. After letting the project sit for 48 hours, I attached the figure-8 clips and secured the top to the frame, and finally, it was done.
1st coat of stain2nd coat of stain
Reflecting on the Project
In general, I am very happy with this project’s outcome. I started on it in August and had it finished by mid-September. That’s very fast for me. There are several reasons for it, but I’m not the fastest woodworker, so I was thrilled by how quickly this one came together. The most time-consuming part of the project was finishing, as there’s always a lot of downtime while the stain or finish dries.
I’m extremely happy with how strong the table is and how beautiful the table is, especially the legs. It accomplished my goal of resembling Japanese woodworking, but I made it unique. I love how simple everything looks, while still being incredibly strong. That said, it’s not perfect. Some of the joints aren’t as tight as I’d like, and the curves on the legs aren’t perfect. With a bandsaw or scroll saw, this would be easier to achieve. It’s also not perfectly square, but then again, what is?
Ultimately, we love this table, and it perfectly fits our needs and our living room. We’re able to sit at it and eat dinner or do work, which is very comfortable. If we don’t feel like sitting on the floor, we can pull it closer to the couch or sit on a footstool. The table’s height allows us to prop our feet on it, which was a goal. Unintentionally, the table’s height also allows us to stow stools below it, which was a wonderful surprise. Finally, the table is easy to move and clean under. While it’s very strong, it’s pretty light and slides on the carpet. For the first coffee table I’ve made, I couldn’t be prouder.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my journey of building a coffee table. Even more, though, is that I hope it inspired you to build something if you’re considering it. It can be daunting, but it’s okay to make mistakes and take risks.
