Tag: fashion design

2024 Fashion Predictions (Just for Fun)

This post is inspired by videos created by Drew Joiner and Steal the Spotlight who offered their unique takes and got me thinking about where I could see fashion trends shifting as we move into a new year.

  • Cosmic-Cowboy or Sailor-Cowboy
    • In 2023, we had the Coastal Cowboy aesthetic and Copper Cowboy hair color for Autumn. Cowboy will keep going strong, but there will be a twist. I could see a sailor-cowboy mashup influenced by One Piece or a glitz, chromed cosmic-cowboy. I picture a Vegas-esque cowboy with space accessories. I can see Brandon Flowers rocking this.
  • Gameday Fits
    • No matter how much I don’t like TS I have to admit that Taylor Swift’s presence at Kansas City Chief games is drawing attention to the gameday outfit. Athletes have been doing this for a while but for fans, this has been a niche thing. It’s not really “fashionable” just functional and decked out in team gear. But Taylor’s outfits have drawn attention and sparked the creative juices of sports attendees to add a little extra. Team this with the importance of the jersey in Blokette core in 2023 and I see this going strong in 2024!
  • Bonnets
    • Steal the Spotlight brought my attention to this trend through her deep dives into K-fashion and J-fashion. The knit bonnet, which looks like a headband that covers the ears and ties around the chin is a fascinating idea that has been styled in Japanese street fashion all the way back in the 1990s. I’d love for this to be explored further in 2024.
  • The Resurrection of Parasols
    • Skincare and anti-aging have become billion-dollar industries, with baby botox becoming a normal idea for teenagers. I believe that the idea of sun umbrellas or parasols, like how they use umbrellas in Korea, could trend so that we can keep those wrinkles at bay, per the beauty standard. I would be in favor of this because the sun hurts my pale blue eyes and vampire-esque skin.
  • The Return of the Flip-Flop
    • We’ve had Tevas, Crocs, Birkenstocks, etc and I’d say it’s time for the 2000s rubber flip-flop to have its moment again. The ones that were hugely popular in the States during the 2000s due to Old Navy’s $1 or $2 flip-flop sales. I used to also get these for free from Victoria’s Secret if I spent $50. Because of the economy and the shift away from maximalism brewing, I think these coming back would make a lot of sense.
  • Patches and Visible Mending
    • This has grown in popularity since 2020 but I think the DIY element of this will become more of a focus in 2024. It would be a vehicle for self-expression while focusing on sustainability, helping with no-buy years, and in general looking cool, as the tik-tok aesthetics desire.
  • ARMY-core
    • As of December 2023, all seven members of BTS are enlisted and completing their military service. To get ready for their return I could see military styles with a K-pop and BTS flair becoming popular as fans globally miss their Bangtan Boys. I could see this in garment styles and accessories, with a distinct BTS flavor. Outfits could be inspired by music videos, performances, album concepts, and color stories.
  • Gilded Age Finery
    • I think we are sleeping on the Gilded Age aesthetic. The fashion plates of the 1870s-1880s and the costumes of the show are stunning. I don’t understand why this is not taking off like Downton Abbey’s 1920s fashion or Regency-era styles from Bridgerton. Historical fashion communities have been growing in popularity since the late 2010s. I’d love to see people experiment with the silhouettes, fabrics, tailoring, and accessories!
  • Colorful Knit Accessories
    • Kawaii and K-pop influences have definitely had an effect on knit accessories this year from animal ears to stripey hats and arm warmers coming back. The hat and scarf connected combo was iconic. I don’t see this going anywhere in 2024.
  • Exaggerated Tailoring
    • I think with the rise of quiet luxury and minimalism due to the economy I think exaggerated and surreal tailoring will break these styles out of the blah and bring something to the table that we maximalists will hang on to in 2024. Personal style is beginning to dwarf the larger trends and what is a better way to stand out than flipping the script on traditional cuts and proportions.
  • Jersey Shore nostalgia
    • I’ve seen too many reels about this time period to not believe this is coming back in some way. Club fashion in the early 2010s was something unique. Good or bad it has left a mark and I think youth culture will want to explore the studs, the bandage dresses, the leopard print, the Affliction tees, and True Religion jeans with sunglasses and a poof. Extra points for Gym Tan Laundry.

What do you think will be trending in 2024? I hope you enjoyed this just-for-fun list of things I think would be enjoyable to see. I wish you a wonderful new year full of peace and love. I’ll see you in the new year, friends. ❤

Merry and Bright: Styling Colorful Pieces in Dark Winter

In mid-December and January, I tend to drop off into cozy land where all I want to wear are leggings, fuzzy socks, and hoodies. I feel unproductive and I don’t know what to wear. This is odd because, in terms of fashion, this is my favorite season for fabrics, garments, and occasions. I love layering coats, hats, scarves, boots, mittens, etc.

To fight the slump, I’m leaning into bright colors and bold prints.

I’m pushing myself this year to rediscover the love I used to have for dressing up when it got cold like I did in college. I still indulge a bit when I can pair cozy pieces with more polished items but they have to have more personality this year! I am setting a hard line with my clothing choices to break out of the athleisure slump.

To accomplish this goal, I’ve found myself reaching for my colorful knitwear! I’ve spent the time making the items, I need to wear them. This sweater dress is quickly becoming a favorite of mine. It is just as comforting as a hoodie but looks like a dress and can be worn over jeans or leggings depending on the occasion.

Going into the fall, I knew I wanted more knitwear and accessories but I was dubious about my design choices. Would they work together to form cohesive outfits? Well yes and no, it depends on a matter of taste.

To someone who wears neutrals and classic accessories, this might be a bit ugly. But to a maximalist, like myself I enjoy the color palettes and pops of color these pieces bring to the brown and gray landscape of early winter.

I prefer having that neutral coat and having that punch of accessories to bring the look together. Hats and scarves can say a lot in an outfit yet are easy to mix and match, it’s a hit of creativity for minimal effort.

I’ve been reaching for my cat-ear beanie like a staple which I have to be honest I was not expecting. I get some stares, good and bad, but for every weird look, there are two expressions of joy at the sight of the cat beanie. If I can dress to bring people joy by the color and unusual design then that is a win for me.

Another style I am dabbling in is the academic style of a collared shirt and a vest. In this version, I styled a mini dress over a long flannel (from the men’s tall section) to create what I say is a Chandler Bing outfit. This was an insanely comfortable outfit yet mixed up my casual style for the winter. Because the colors are a bit unusual for the academic silhouette I felt playful and more like me.

I’m happy to say I’ve reached for some of my handmade pieces on those cozy days I may have opted for leggings or sweatpants like this laundry day outfit of a flannel “cardigan” over a thermal crewneck and the patterned corduroy pants that drafted myself. It was an odd combo but the colorful patterns truly brightened up a gray and dark snowy day.

That’s not to say that I haven’t reached for the cozy staples but with more polish, like this Aran Jumper style sweater that my mom knit for me. It’s a stunner!

How do you dress in December and January? Like me, in this dark winter do you struggle to find the joy in getting dressed?

#43 – Sketching While I Listen

My go-to in school, during sermons growing up (being honest here), or even while watching television was to have a notebook in hand and to sketch. Usually, my hand would gravitate first to flowers or stars and then sweep towards the runway and I would sketch fashion designs. I did this from 11 years onward until, I think I started sewing which is ironic because you’d think I’d sketch more now. Lately, during phone conversations, I’ve noticed if I’m not doing chores like dishes or folding laundry while catching up with friends and family or knitting, my hand gets an itch to draw. Yesterday as I sat in my husband’s home office while video calling I grabbed random scrap paper and his pen in order to make sweeping gowns. Why? I think old habits and dang, I noticed my listening skills go up when my hands are busy.

I wouldn’t say I struggle to sit still, I think my mind just tends to wander as I conversate with others, and with the random creative energy swirling in my mind, I begin to feel restless. But as I grabbed that familiar pen and began to sketch my mind became clear and tuned to the topic at hand.

I remember my notebooks in school were adorned with dresses, jackets, and full-collections down the side of my history notes interspersed with a flourish of stars and flowers. When I used to watch movies with my mom growing up I would sketch my favorite pieces from the costume design. I think that’s why I fell in love with Joe Wright’s 2005 version of Pride and Prejudice. I know, that the pieces used in the movies are painfully not Regency Era fashion, but those moments of costume design sparked my imagination as a teenager who loved history and fashion.

I didn’t realize I had stopped doing this as a habit until yesterday, and honestly, I don’t want to stop sketching like that again. I think a new goal in 2024 will be to continue sketching when I watch instead of filling my hands with knitting. There’s a special creativity that seems to come from these moments.

Do you like to multi-task like this? What’s your go-to way to relax?

My Singer Sewing Machine Transformed the Way I Approach Sewing

This is a post of gratitude and retrospect, posted about a month too late but that’s alright. It still counts. I bought my sewing machine a year ago (plus a month) and it has transformed my workflow and productivity while reducing headaches and finger strain.

Sewing By Hand

How you may ask? Well, when I started sewing back in the fall of 2020, money was tight as it was for everyone that year, and machines were out of stock so I started sewing by hand through Bernadette Banner’s tutorials. I kept doing this for a year and a half until I was getting sick of the slow pace, eye strain, finger strain, and lack of structure when it came to making strong seams on thick fabric. My stitches were still elementary and my construction was lacking because the literal sewing process was occupying most of my time.

I’m stubborn and self-destructive in my creative process so I refused to give in and buy one until I was working on my A/W 2022 Collection. I was behind, not finishing things the way I wanted, and downright miserable. My husband who is my best friend insisted that I stop the madness and buy a machine and that’s how I ended up with my pal, Señor Senior Singer.

Why a Heavy Duty Machine?

At first, I was scared of using the machine. I have used three other machines and I didn’t understand how they worked. My mom lent me her 2010’s Brother Machine with a computer stitch function. It had a lot of error messages and broke down. My dad brought me a 1960s Sears and Roebuck machine he found in an attic, it has some serious internal mechanical issues. My Aunt Florence gave me her 2000s Brother machine that has been well maintained and through that experience I got a bit acquainted with the machine sewing process. It was still overwhelming though because I lacked the knowledge to know how to get out of a jam of thread or how to reload that pesky bobin. Don’t even ask me about thread tension or needle type, I was lost.

Through this experience I learned durability, strength of sewing, and lack of computerization was what I was looking for. I want to be able to sew through a tightly woven twill for a coat and yet have the durability to know I can sew for many years. I wanted a machine with reliability that I could count on to not have a computer meltdown during the middle of a delicate project.

Sewing Is Fun Again

A year in, I’m incredibly pleased with the Singer Heavy Duty Machine. It came with a download for a comprehensive user manual and the needles are easy to find and affordable. It has allowed me to finish projects with finesse and speed. In doing so I’ve been able to find balance in my life to write, to knit, to draw, to workout with more regularity, manage the house better and be generally less cranky and frustrated by how my time is being used.

I’m passionate about fashion and this year my desire for the craft has grown. I feel a hunger to level up my skills and create more complicated and beautiful things. The technical part of the sewing process was lifted off my shoulder by Señor Senior Singer and without the space again to get creative, I know I wouldn’t have made as many strides in design and execution as I was able to do. Because honestly, I would have quit in 2023 without the machine. I was so burnt out by the drudgery that is sewing by hand with our modern fabrics.

Thank you, Señor Senior Singer for being in my life a whole year! It’s been a fantastic ride and I can’t wait to see where we taking our sewing together next year!

Styling My Wardrobe: Late Fall 2023 Edition

These outfits are a mix of handmade pieces and things I’ve picked up. Where I live it was a chilly fall, complete with snow and blustery, rainy days which is fine by me because I love cozy clothing. The weather provided the chance to get more wear out of my sweaters and knit accessories before winter even began!

Fall and Winter are my preferred seasons to build an outfit in simply for the textures, silhouettes, and possibilities. I like patterns, obviously. But I like pattern with darker colors which is not the best for those hot summer days when a lighter color is best. It’s been fun to build a wardrobe with a color palette this year. I’ve paid more attention to my silhouettes, particularly when it came to adding pants to my closet. I prefer options – baggy, flared, tailored, skinny, athleisure, etc. Give them all to me so I can play around with a new look.

Green Stripe Sweater Finale

This was my most ambitious project yet and I’m happy to say it’s done! And on schedule too because the deadline in my head was by the end of 2023. I didn’t think I would get there, especially with other projects, but it happened!

It’s funkier than I first designed, and it’s also a dress now which is fun and unique to my wardrobe. I don’t have any sweater tunics or dresses like this. I’m excited to play around with styling this piece as winter is yet to come. It’s still autumn technically which makes me want to jump for joy because I’ll be able to enjoy this piece all season long instead of partially or not at all like some of my former projects.

Trying Something New – Hot Pink Scuba Fabric

The clearance section of a fabric store may be my biggest design inspiration. It is in the bolts of discounted fabrics from seasons past that you can find some real gems in my opinion. My brain gets a break from the items deemed trendy or seasonal for a moment to look for something new and at a reasonable price to justify taking a chance on something new. That is how I took a chance on this two-sided scuba fabric that is hot pink and light pink. Not really my cup of tea! But it was 2 USD per yard and honestly a fascinating texture and weight. It was worth the leap to try something new, so I did!

Now, do I always have a garment idea in mind when I pick out these cuts? Nope. Should I? Probably. But some magic can happen as they hang out in my fabric stash like inspiration finding its way to me, which is quite fun.

For this cut, in particular, I was a scuba newbie. The weight was hefty with a bit of stretch, so it needed to be a garment that could handle the heavier textile. The two-sided nature provided two color palettes in one. I considered a jacket, a coat dress maybe? The thing that was working against my creative brain was the Barbie movie. I did not want to make a Barbie cosplay, simply because Barbie was not my favorite toy. I was an American Girl Doll and a Fashion Polly girl through and through. Making a Barbie-inspired garment would not be authentically me nor would it be something I would wear because, did I mention I don’t really wear pink? Yeah, I don’t love pink, especially hot pink, so why did I buy hot pink fabric fabric? I think I like pushing myself to a place of adventure with the clothes I make. I don’t want to make boring clothes if my skills will allow me to do so. No matter what I did with this fabric it was not going to be boring.

One day I saw this photo of Hyunjin on Instagram and it hit me, why does this pink scuba fabric half to be made into a feminine Barbie cosplay? Hot pink looks fantastic in a masculine silhouette. Making a neutral garment, like a pair of pants could be just the thing I need to make this fabric feel accessible to me and my own personal style. A pink dress felt too on the nose for me to get any wear out of and that is a big thing for me. I don’t want to make things I am not going to wear just for the heck of it. Maybe one day if I have a way to sell things that aren’t my personal style but right now that would be a poor use of resources and excess clutter my closet doesn’t need.

I knew I wouldn’t be able to make a hot pink pair of jeans like Hyunjin is wearing, I simply don’t have a jeans pattern in my stash, but I do have a menswear trouser pattern. I chose to use that instead of free-handing a jeans pattern so this garment would have the best chance of success. Jeans have an incredible amount of details that make them distinct and classic. The pants I drafted were going to be far more simple as these would be my first attempt at sewing my own trousers. It was a big moment!

I altered the menswear trouser pattern I had for a better fit by raising the rise for a higher-waisted fit. I did this to fit my waist better and to give more room to my hips. I was nervous these were not going to fit me right because I was grading the pattern to my own design so I cut a generous seam allowance around each piece. (A little too generous I will find out later.) This fabric cut like butter and did not make a mess, which was a huge victory after my Jack Sparrow Inspired Coat corduroy left a layer of fluff on my floor that I still find remnants of today.

To match the crotch lines better, I tried something new from my previous shorts projects and sewed the front and back seams first and then I worked the inseams, working my way out the outside leg seams last. I don’t know if this is the proper technique for sewing trousers but it worked well for this project. I tried them on and the pants fit well, a little wonky at the front because I left too much seam allowance, but they looked like actual pants that an actual person would wear. It was around this point that I realized I needed to do more than just sew two leg tubes together, these trousers would need pockets, fastening, and belt loops to be a properly finished garment.

I recently learned how to make button holes which I shared in My First Buttondown Shirt and with this newfound knowledge I decided to go in a Spicy direction, literally like the Aespa Spicy M/V, I was going y2k! What was cooler than popstar fashion when I was a kid? Nothing. I wanted these to feel like Destiny’s Child or a backup dancer for Proto Zoa would wear.

I decided the best way to accomplish this would be to make cargo pockets for a funky twist and place them higher like you would normal pockets, to hide the weird fit around the front of the pants. These pockets I designed to be usable, big enough for my phone, and secure, with proper button closures. This was my first attempt at cargo pockets and belt loops and I have to say, they were not as scary to make as I thought, especially with the use of my heavy-duty sewing machine.

Final Thoughts

So as far as my first pair of proper pants, not just lounge pants, I am supremely pleased with how they fit. I can see the flare leg starting at the knee. I like how they fall around my hips. I like the length and the rise of the waistline. The pockets were stronger than I anticipated and the belt loops were functional, which came in handy because these pants were a bit big and continued to stretch as I wore them. Styling them was a bit of a challenge, as I realized I didn’t own much in my existing wardrobe that paired well in color and proportion to the silhouette of these pants. Shoes were also a challenge, I opted for a pair of Converse high tops since I believe they go with almost anything.

This is where things got interesting. I wanted to show my mom and my excitement bested my judgment. I unwisely decided to wear these pants out and about for a day of running errands in Wexford. This was my first mistake. My second mistake came from my unwise decision to cut the pieces with an extra seam allowance that made the front of the pants fit weird. The waistband was a bit big which I thought I could remedy with a belt. It did work for a bit until the fabric began to stretch, and stretch it did! The belt stopped working which was awkward, as every few minutes I had to adjust the belt.

My third mistake was not inserting a zipper to take the waistband in, which I should have planned for. I got excited and sewed the seams before I remembered the zipper. This scuba fabric showed every hole, whether pin or needle, therefore seam ripping and inserting the zipper worried me because the fabric was weaker in those spots. I was concerned the pants would rip (foreshadowing) so I left the pants as is to depend on that belt for structure. The side was the only place to put the zipper because the front was fitting so weirdly I did not want a zipper shining a big spotlight on that error.

Herein lies my final boss of mistakes, the fabric versus my thread tension. It was a mele. With thick fabric, I raise the thread tension because it helps the needle sew through the thicker fabric. Being unfamiliar with scuba I didn’t know how the scuba would respond. The scuba did not like the high tension nor did it like being sewn. I was able to get the pants, the pockets, the waistband, buttons, and belt loops on, but there were times I could barely get a needle through. The tension came back to bite me in the butt as my wear test went on. By the end of the day, I was incredibly thankful we headed home early. The thread on structural seams, like the main ones in the front, back, and sides had begun to rip through the fabric. The seams were on their last leg.

I’ve never had this happen with a project before! I was incredibly frustrated as this project took days to sew. My fingers were scratched up from the pins and the needle accidentally stabbed me as I hand sewed the buttons. There was no way to fix them, they were toast.

And so ends the journey of the pink pants. They had a good day out. A one-time adventure. They were good pants that deserved better. In my short time with them, they taught me a lot. Thank you pink pants and random scuba fabric. I will never purchase scuba again!

To Hood or Not To Hood, That Was the Question

I’m currently working on a big knitwear design project. Probably the most ambitious project that I have taken on yet in my time designing knitwear and fabricating sweaters. It is a sweater coat with varying stripes that I have knit in sections over the past few months. I’m currently three months into this project, and per my working style, I’ve worked on smaller projects alongside this big project to keep me stimulated and my motivation high.

This was my progress at the end of September. I had the entire bodice done and sewn together at the shoulder seams, back seam, and under the arms until the point of the sleeve opening. Because I sew, this process of knitting makes more sense to my creative brain than the knitting in the round process. If this type of knitting drives you nuts, it’s only going to get worse so I warned you. 🙂

September Progress

October Progress

In October, I honestly futzed around with the hood and collar and that was about it. I knit one other body panel so two out of four were done and drafted collar and hood patterns, over and over again. I initially expected to make more progress in October and to have just the sleeves left going into November. That didn’t happen.

It was that dang collar and hood section, that kept me in this place of indecision and design frustration. I initially made a collar with a normal stitch, not a ribbed which looks a bit cleaner. I think I was concerned about the collar looking cohesive and was afraid that a solid collar in rib instead of a knit-purl stitch with a stripe would look less cohesive. It looked odd actually. The stripe was good, but the flat collar which began to roll on the end looked ineffectual for a collar. After I sewed it in I carefully cut the collar away which was discouraging from a progress perspective, until I realized the stitched of the collar remained (because I was afraid of snipping the wrong yarn and destroying the shoulders) and the neck opening had this lovely fit and structure now. The shoulders were slightly gathered up to the neck opening and the fit was fantastic now! It just needed a new collar.

I had an idea – what if instead of a collar I went straight to a hood. I had been watching a lot of Gilmore Girls throughout October, seasons four and five to be exact which spanned the years of 2003-2005, peak 2000s fashion. And you know what was popular during this time? The duster! I had an idea, what if the hood was just one piece of this puzzle, what if I made it longer, much longer, added a hood, a rib trim around all the edges with a button closure! A funky duster the likes of Sookie, the Olsen twins, Lindsay Lohan, and even Lorelai herself would have worn during this time.

I knew I wanted to keep the stripe theme going, something that looked labor-intensive and expensive, like a bohemian duster or sweater coat that would be featured in an Anthropologie campaign. I wanted the hood to carry on that stripe motif to make it feel integral to the garment, not an add-on.

Last October, I learned how to draft hood shapes for several outerwear pieces that I crafted for my loved ones as a part of my Potato Technology’s Autumn/Winter 2022 Collection so I am pretty comfortable with the shape and sizing scale for a hood on an outerwear garment. The thing I underestimated though was how tricky it would be to form the hood as I went, as you do with knitting, instead of cutting the hood shape out of fabric. This kicked my butt. I spent a weekend making one half of a hood out of yarn and it was so cursed. When I took it off the needles it didn’t look like the hoods I had created out of fabric and thread. It was lumpy, too short, and not going to work for what I needed.

Once again, I got my scissors out cut the bind off loose, and proceeded to wind the yarn back into a ball. That is when I decided I had to move on to a new section of the project, for my own sanity. Because I still didn’t know how the hood became misshapen in the fabrication process. None of it made sense. Going straight back into making a new hood when I didn’t know how to solve the problem would be a waste of time and resources. I only have one set of size 7 needles, there was no need to tie them up in another likely failed attempt.

I pivoted to the the length of the duster. To make the bottom have more structure I decided to knit this section in two pieces.

November’s Progress (11/16)

This was a good move. I made the first half 30 stitches wider than the previous body panels to create some drape around the hips and the results are cute. The sweater has this sophisticated little flare that accentuates the waist – I was not expecting that! 🙂

With this step in the right direction, I got to work and powered through the last two body panels and the second flare panel at the bottom. It was a lot of work but only took two weeks to complete with focus, stretching, and snacks.

I have a tendency to let the garment lead me. I like to see how the fabric or yarn responds to the vision I have in my head and adjust the design accordingly to the way the project is coming together. The flared panels at the bottom of the sweater inspired me to pivot again, to step back from the hood and long duster to a sweater coat cardigan that could be buttoned into a sweater dress if I would be inclined to wear it as such.

That’s where it stands now. I began drafting a sleeve and designing the color work I had planned for the stripes before I continued any further because I could change my mind and add more length. The hood is out through, it’s just not the vibe.

When will this project be done? I sure hope by the end of 2023, but we shall see.

Is A Coat Project Ever Done?

After a wear test this past weekend I realized my Jack Sparrow-inspired coat needed a few more touches to truly pop. Including accessories which will be coming soon. As for the coat, it was missing that polish, you know? So I took the belt and chopped it into five rectangles to make the button tabs and the pocket flaps. I also added more buttons! Two more styles, actually. I added leather-inspired buttons for the chest tabs and a tortoiseshell set to the lapels and the pockets. The pockets have closing buttons for security which was desperately needed because I was close to losing my phone on Saturday due to those gaping pockets. For only having the yardage from the belt to work with this turned out well. Is it a complete project? Time will tell. 🙂

A Modern Jack Sparrow Coat

I alluded to my love of pirate-inspired looks in Piratecore, Lorelai Gilmore & Sportswear Influences but to be honest, I’ve been chasing after the pirate fashion feels since watching The Pirates of the Caribbean as a kid. The movies came out at a formative time for me, I was a tween and then a teen as the first three movies premiered ( I don’t count the fourth or fifth movies as part of the franchise for many reasons, quality being one, anyway) which is a time when you begin to discover inspirations and your individual style. I remember having a Pirates of the Caribbean locket charm bracelet from Claire’s that I wore often with boots for that pirate mood. It had a skull and crossbones and a cringe picture of Will Turner, my middle school fave inside. That was the beginning of this pirate journey.

In high school, I dabbled with the skulls and skeletons, including a Flogging Molly pirate graphic tee, but I had yet to find anything that truly captured the costuming of the movie. In college, I got a bit closer with a pair of over-the-knee Vince Camuto boots that had pirate cuffs and studs down the back. Now that I know how to sew, it’s time to get serious about this, right?

As an adult, I admire the costuming of Jack Sparrow and Elizabeth Swann more than Will Turner. Particularly the costumes from the third movie, At World’s End. This poster I’ve had this since middle school and it still inspires me today, I actually used it for the basis of my coat and plan to recreate a coat dress like Elizabeth Swann wears along with an accurate Jack Sparrow cosplay at some point in the future.

At this point in time, I knew that would require in-depth research of both the historical garment and the costumes created for the movie. I would also be taking on a greater cost by sourcing specific materials like linen or duck canvas for this project along with historical patterns and additional fastenings, stiffeners, and not a lot of expertise to fall back on if something went wrong. So I decided to do a modern interpretation. Something that would have a pirate essence but would not look costume-like.

I settled on this chocolate-brown corduroy that acquired from Joann’s clearance over a year ago. With four yards to work with, I knew I could make a long and oversized coat that would be lighter in weight but could accommodate a bulky sweater or hoodie underneath. I knew I also wanted a simple fastening and toyed with the idea of a belt, which I made, and a zipper, which I prefer as the primary closure.

To figure out what silhouette I wanted, I referenced the outerwear of several Ateez music videos, including Don’t Stop which puts a modern spin on the pirate aesthetic. Kim Hongjoong was my modern inspiration for the cut of this coat, down to the epaulette details on the shoulder. I wanted the coat to be boxy and cape-like, like a modern-day pirate captain. A future goal is to acquire an Ateez compass patch to sew on the arm and complete the Hongjoong reference.

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