The Marguerite Jacket

When I put this jacket top on for the first time, the finished piece, I felt this sense of completeness. What I used to sketch, what I would aspire to be, the aesthetics I was drawn to during those formative years of finding my personal style in the late 2000s and early 2010s before life got a bit weird, this was the type of fashion I wanted to be a part of. It’s the kind of thing I’ve been waiting for my skills to develop to reach the imagination held inside. Waiting for the chance to express itself in more than paper and pen, in thread and fabric and form!

My early projects were a product of the times, a year spent online instead of in the world, historical fashion, cottage core, and dark academia, but not the personal style I had cultivated. Big projects were hard, blazers seemed impossible. But they are so iconic. I crave structured pieces like that in my wardrobe, I mean I wrote an entire essay on the jackets and structured fashion that is the Don’t Stop Music Video by Ateez. That is 4 minutes of glorious outerwear inspiration!

This project at times seemed borderline cursed. I cut this jacket out the day I screwed up my tweed coat and notched lapel pattern by forgetting to mirror the pieces. Not the best start to a day of design work, but perseverance and clear-headedness prevailed to keep this pattern on track. But then, it sat in my stash waiting for me to get started. I hid from it in case I failed it.

One day, I put the pieces on the form and began to pin. The lines of a jacket, structured shoulders, and excess fabric hang around the collar, waiting for the traditional form to take shape. I pinned it exactly how I thought I wanted it, and the sewing process made a few edits for me and my plan. My machine took the lead and created the happy accident, the darts around the neckline. The collar was inserted with more attitude than my intention but I prefer the edge, the little twist on the blazer that has become the Marguerite Jacket.

With the wide lapels, I pinned them back against the jacket to create these triangle shapes on the body of the jacket top. I decided to lean into the attitude of the silhouette to add an exposed zipper and black buttons for a bit of a British punk little spice. I anchored the collar down in the front, balancing the chaos and structure into a garment that walks the line between blouse and blazer. It’s comfy, it’s fun, it’s versatile. I’ve styled it with flare, baggy jeans as pictured. I’ve styled it as a blazer over a cocktail-style dress. I know it will be fun to try it out over cargo pants, skirts, shorts, etc. I look forward to it! I also look forward to wear my designs evolve from here as moving forward I plan to become more cohesive in my aesthetics and collections.

Wearing a Full Potato Technology Outfit

What I’ve wanted since I started my sewing journey was to be able to wear a head-to-toe outfit of my designs. Now have I technically done this before wearing a dress I made? Yes, but a higher level of skill is needed to wear an entire outfit of sportswear separates, crafted with my own self-drafted patterns. This was the level up in my sewing I wanted and in Fall 2023, I achieved it!

Lightweight Corduroy Trousers

In Trying Something New – Hot Pink Scuba Fabric I mentioned I was working on a trouser pattern, and although the pink scuba pants didn’t work I learned an important lesson about designing pants – fabric choice! I revised my trouser pattern, referencing the dimensions of one of my existing pants in my closet and chose a better fabric. This paisley pattern corduroy is lightweight and strong, with a bit of stretch. This fabric took the stitches far more effectively than the scuba. The weave is different and therefore the stitches did not have to cut through and pull through the fabric as it did with the scuba’s texture. Lightweight corduroy gave me the drape I wanted with the opacity and structure I was looking for. Hopefully, the longevity too!

I’ve worn these pants three times and they are going strong. I’ve even altered them to take the waist and add a zipper fly and they fit excellently. In addition to the trousers, I crafted a matching belt and belt loops to adjust the waist as needed.

Recreating a VS Cowl Neck Sweater

I had a favorite sweater in college from Victoria’s Secret. It was a black drapey knit sweater, boxy shaped, and featured an exaggerated cowl neck that could be worn off the shoulder. I wore it for a long time until I lost it and I haven’t quite found another one like it. I wanted to make a 2023 version of it that bridged the gap between sweater and sweatshirt.

Enter this cranberry stretch fabric that was warm but with a texture that looked like a sweatshirt. I went into the unknown and decided to make a cowl neck for the first time and I’d say it turned out just as I wished. I don’t like wearing things off the shoulder anymore therefore I made the cowl neck opening smaller than the inspiration piece. I added cuffs as a cuffed bottom to encourage the garment to hang in a boxy fit but not ride up as I move through out my day. It does as it is asked. I’ve worn this piece with jeans, leggings, and these corduroy pants and I have to say it’s pretty dang versatile.

The only thing I wish I could change is the few sections of seam where I was fighting with my sewing machine. I had a mishap with a stitch and had to stitch rip the seam. Unfortunately I caught a small piece of the fabric and caused damage to the cuff. Other than that unfortunate event, I’m properly chuffed. These two pieces moved my sewing skills and design portfolio in the direction I am aiming for – tailoring, construction, bigger projects, head-to-toe looks.

A Study of Mittens

To develop a pattern I could rely on I’ve been studying mittens. Different shapes, proportions, and ribbed versus knit-purl have been tested to see what I like to wear and make. It’s been a fun journey! A journey where I’ve learned how pattern development involves skill refinement.

October 2022

The brown mitten was developed first. It was a project on a whim to make better hand-warming devices than I had before. In the Fall and Winter of 2021, I made mittens out of cheap, bulky weight yarn that while soft looked like whales breaching out of the water instead of hand-shaped mittens. They lacked dexterity, polish, and honestly, lacked taste. They were ill-fitting because they were a prototype and I tried wearing them but tossed them at the end of the season to try again. Enter the brown mitten.

The brown mitten had a good shape. It was created from a worsted weight yarn on size 7 needles compared to the previous bulky yarn on size 11. The brown had even stitches, warmth, and potential! I got so excited that I forgot to write my project notes and boldly decided to make the second one later. This never happened. This mitten floated in my cold-weather accessory bin until I let it go.

August 2023

Next, I worked on the black rib knit mitten. Instead of a knit-purl structure I made a crucial error and decided to make the entire mitten, not just the cuff, with a rib knit. Why was this an error? Well, the tension across the yarn was stiff and this made the mitten difficult to wear. It also looked messy because I had to reduce my stitches to achieve that curved shape at the top. When you are developing a pattern you are improvising and experimenting so as you can guess my reduction led to uneven ribbing and wonky texture.

It was not my best work and harkened back to that weird breaching whale shape. Not a fan!

September 2023

The Blue Sheep mittens were a wonderful delight! I picked up a blue tweed yarn at Joann’s on a sale and began making things that made me happy, like this recreation of my Blarney Woolen Mills gloves from the early 2000s. My mom and I bought matching sheep gloves in this color when we visited in 2001. As they wore out we repurchased them online until Blarney Woolen Mills stopped offering them.

I don’t currently have the understanding of how to make gloves so I tried recreating them in mitten form. They worked well except for the fact that I made them too wide at the top and too short at the bottom. I added a piece at the bottom to make the cuff longer. The little sheep brought me so much joy! Unfortunately, I forgot to take notes on this one too, and was unable to make a matching one. I recreated the blue tweed mittens in another batch that I scaled too big and passed them on to my husband because they were simply too big for my hands.

November 2023

The hot pink mittens are my gold standard. The fit is sublime. The shape is lovely and yes I took notes and changed my order of construction in order to make mittens that match in size and shape. I now knit the mitts first, so four in total, then the cuffs, and lastly the thumb pieces. Then I sew them together at the same time. This system works. The proportions are perfect for my hands and have truly saved this study of mittens from feeling like a multi-year flop!

Project Takeaways

  • Always take notes of your stitch count and needle size to make the project repeatable!
  • Never stop between mittens, trust me you will not go back to finish the second.
  • Cute details like sheep or other motifs are kind of awesome! I plan to experiment with this technique in the future.
  • Reduction speed will affect the shape and potential wonkiness of the mitten, proceed with caution.
  • Mittens are actually a great beginner project. They are quick and easy.

2024 Fashion Predictions (Just for Fun)

This post is inspired by videos created by Drew Joiner and Steal the Spotlight who offered their unique takes and got me thinking about where I could see fashion trends shifting as we move into a new year.

  • Cosmic-Cowboy or Sailor-Cowboy
    • In 2023, we had the Coastal Cowboy aesthetic and Copper Cowboy hair color for Autumn. Cowboy will keep going strong, but there will be a twist. I could see a sailor-cowboy mashup influenced by One Piece or a glitz, chromed cosmic-cowboy. I picture a Vegas-esque cowboy with space accessories. I can see Brandon Flowers rocking this.
  • Gameday Fits
    • No matter how much I don’t like TS I have to admit that Taylor Swift’s presence at Kansas City Chief games is drawing attention to the gameday outfit. Athletes have been doing this for a while but for fans, this has been a niche thing. It’s not really “fashionable” just functional and decked out in team gear. But Taylor’s outfits have drawn attention and sparked the creative juices of sports attendees to add a little extra. Team this with the importance of the jersey in Blokette core in 2023 and I see this going strong in 2024!
  • Bonnets
    • Steal the Spotlight brought my attention to this trend through her deep dives into K-fashion and J-fashion. The knit bonnet, which looks like a headband that covers the ears and ties around the chin is a fascinating idea that has been styled in Japanese street fashion all the way back in the 1990s. I’d love for this to be explored further in 2024.
  • The Resurrection of Parasols
    • Skincare and anti-aging have become billion-dollar industries, with baby botox becoming a normal idea for teenagers. I believe that the idea of sun umbrellas or parasols, like how they use umbrellas in Korea, could trend so that we can keep those wrinkles at bay, per the beauty standard. I would be in favor of this because the sun hurts my pale blue eyes and vampire-esque skin.
  • The Return of the Flip-Flop
    • We’ve had Tevas, Crocs, Birkenstocks, etc and I’d say it’s time for the 2000s rubber flip-flop to have its moment again. The ones that were hugely popular in the States during the 2000s due to Old Navy’s $1 or $2 flip-flop sales. I used to also get these for free from Victoria’s Secret if I spent $50. Because of the economy and the shift away from maximalism brewing, I think these coming back would make a lot of sense.
  • Patches and Visible Mending
    • This has grown in popularity since 2020 but I think the DIY element of this will become more of a focus in 2024. It would be a vehicle for self-expression while focusing on sustainability, helping with no-buy years, and in general looking cool, as the tik-tok aesthetics desire.
  • ARMY-core
    • As of December 2023, all seven members of BTS are enlisted and completing their military service. To get ready for their return I could see military styles with a K-pop and BTS flair becoming popular as fans globally miss their Bangtan Boys. I could see this in garment styles and accessories, with a distinct BTS flavor. Outfits could be inspired by music videos, performances, album concepts, and color stories.
  • Gilded Age Finery
    • I think we are sleeping on the Gilded Age aesthetic. The fashion plates of the 1870s-1880s and the costumes of the show are stunning. I don’t understand why this is not taking off like Downton Abbey’s 1920s fashion or Regency-era styles from Bridgerton. Historical fashion communities have been growing in popularity since the late 2010s. I’d love to see people experiment with the silhouettes, fabrics, tailoring, and accessories!
  • Colorful Knit Accessories
    • Kawaii and K-pop influences have definitely had an effect on knit accessories this year from animal ears to stripey hats and arm warmers coming back. The hat and scarf connected combo was iconic. I don’t see this going anywhere in 2024.
  • Exaggerated Tailoring
    • I think with the rise of quiet luxury and minimalism due to the economy I think exaggerated and surreal tailoring will break these styles out of the blah and bring something to the table that we maximalists will hang on to in 2024. Personal style is beginning to dwarf the larger trends and what is a better way to stand out than flipping the script on traditional cuts and proportions.
  • Jersey Shore nostalgia
    • I’ve seen too many reels about this time period to not believe this is coming back in some way. Club fashion in the early 2010s was something unique. Good or bad it has left a mark and I think youth culture will want to explore the studs, the bandage dresses, the leopard print, the Affliction tees, and True Religion jeans with sunglasses and a poof. Extra points for Gym Tan Laundry.

What do you think will be trending in 2024? I hope you enjoyed this just-for-fun list of things I think would be enjoyable to see. I wish you a wonderful new year full of peace and love. I’ll see you in the new year, friends. ❤

Merry and Bright: Styling Colorful Pieces in Dark Winter

In mid-December and January, I tend to drop off into cozy land where all I want to wear are leggings, fuzzy socks, and hoodies. I feel unproductive and I don’t know what to wear. This is odd because, in terms of fashion, this is my favorite season for fabrics, garments, and occasions. I love layering coats, hats, scarves, boots, mittens, etc.

To fight the slump, I’m leaning into bright colors and bold prints.

I’m pushing myself this year to rediscover the love I used to have for dressing up when it got cold like I did in college. I still indulge a bit when I can pair cozy pieces with more polished items but they have to have more personality this year! I am setting a hard line with my clothing choices to break out of the athleisure slump.

To accomplish this goal, I’ve found myself reaching for my colorful knitwear! I’ve spent the time making the items, I need to wear them. This sweater dress is quickly becoming a favorite of mine. It is just as comforting as a hoodie but looks like a dress and can be worn over jeans or leggings depending on the occasion.

Going into the fall, I knew I wanted more knitwear and accessories but I was dubious about my design choices. Would they work together to form cohesive outfits? Well yes and no, it depends on a matter of taste.

To someone who wears neutrals and classic accessories, this might be a bit ugly. But to a maximalist, like myself I enjoy the color palettes and pops of color these pieces bring to the brown and gray landscape of early winter.

I prefer having that neutral coat and having that punch of accessories to bring the look together. Hats and scarves can say a lot in an outfit yet are easy to mix and match, it’s a hit of creativity for minimal effort.

I’ve been reaching for my cat-ear beanie like a staple which I have to be honest I was not expecting. I get some stares, good and bad, but for every weird look, there are two expressions of joy at the sight of the cat beanie. If I can dress to bring people joy by the color and unusual design then that is a win for me.

Another style I am dabbling in is the academic style of a collared shirt and a vest. In this version, I styled a mini dress over a long flannel (from the men’s tall section) to create what I say is a Chandler Bing outfit. This was an insanely comfortable outfit yet mixed up my casual style for the winter. Because the colors are a bit unusual for the academic silhouette I felt playful and more like me.

I’m happy to say I’ve reached for some of my handmade pieces on those cozy days I may have opted for leggings or sweatpants like this laundry day outfit of a flannel “cardigan” over a thermal crewneck and the patterned corduroy pants that drafted myself. It was an odd combo but the colorful patterns truly brightened up a gray and dark snowy day.

That’s not to say that I haven’t reached for the cozy staples but with more polish, like this Aran Jumper style sweater that my mom knit for me. It’s a stunner!

How do you dress in December and January? Like me, in this dark winter do you struggle to find the joy in getting dressed?

Styling My Wardrobe: Late Fall 2023 Edition

These outfits are a mix of handmade pieces and things I’ve picked up. Where I live it was a chilly fall, complete with snow and blustery, rainy days which is fine by me because I love cozy clothing. The weather provided the chance to get more wear out of my sweaters and knit accessories before winter even began!

Fall and Winter are my preferred seasons to build an outfit in simply for the textures, silhouettes, and possibilities. I like patterns, obviously. But I like pattern with darker colors which is not the best for those hot summer days when a lighter color is best. It’s been fun to build a wardrobe with a color palette this year. I’ve paid more attention to my silhouettes, particularly when it came to adding pants to my closet. I prefer options – baggy, flared, tailored, skinny, athleisure, etc. Give them all to me so I can play around with a new look.

Green Stripe Sweater Finale

This was my most ambitious project yet and I’m happy to say it’s done! And on schedule too because the deadline in my head was by the end of 2023. I didn’t think I would get there, especially with other projects, but it happened!

It’s funkier than I first designed, and it’s also a dress now which is fun and unique to my wardrobe. I don’t have any sweater tunics or dresses like this. I’m excited to play around with styling this piece as winter is yet to come. It’s still autumn technically which makes me want to jump for joy because I’ll be able to enjoy this piece all season long instead of partially or not at all like some of my former projects.

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